Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guy's got a r32 gtr running 14psi and a full exhaust, everthing else is factory , just want recomendation on getting it to sound little like a turbo, after a nice sound when changing gears -the car boogies but just dosent turn heads when going through the gears lol.

any recomandtions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/
Share on other sites

the main noise comes from the induction side on the turbochargers

predominately the gtr twins are much quieter than the gtst single turbo setups

you can make it louder by opening up the the intake path and/or removing the restrictions

but its likely to suck in hot and dirt etc - the usual twin pods will make it a big louder

try removing the panel filter and go for a boost around the block - should give you an idea what it will sound like with a twin pod kit

be warned dont do this for long as your running open mounted turbo's any level of dirt could shag the bearings etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3481694
Share on other sites

You could always get a pod or something to get a louder induction noise if you're into that sort of thing. I wouldn't recommend getting a atmo bov, it'll be too much trouble with constant stalling etc.

I honestly don't see why you want the head turning though? Not only are the heads turning going to be people you want to impress, but some of them will be the police as well.

I would rather keep my car looking and sounding as stock as possible on the streets that's all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3481699
Share on other sites

hehe that's what you get for askin technical questions on a sunday.

your best bet is to get a metal pipe to go between your turbo and your AFM (otherwise known as a dose pipe around thomastown). it'll amplify the volume of the air induction and any pressure variations (flutter etc) that your system will have.

i've got a twin plate clutch, which lets the world know when I'm changing gears... usually followed by them looking at my car as if something fell off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3481750
Share on other sites

im running a dual port bov. its handy. has atmo and plumb bak which doesnt cause stalling issues like an atmo coz its returns atleast 50% of the air back into the intake. after a tune it make 190kw. it makes the world look when i change gears.

but if i were ui would go the twin pod setup. would cost u about $200 to get this with some quality pods, ie apexi or k&n ($50-$80) each and then adaptor plates about $15-$20 each. that will give u good induction noises and have a flutter to when u change gears ith a dose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3481799
Share on other sites

Pods will make it louder, I have some for sale as I'm sticking to the airbox to attract less attention (or at least I think I can attract less attention that way :ermm:).

I have K&N pods for sale if your looking for some, not sure how much noise they make though.

Apologies for taking this a little off topic.

nope, should be fine.

My RB26 is loud as, lots of nice noises, just pods on there.

The stock BOV's are quite the noise makers

Do the stock BOV's make a "psshht" sound on some gear changes? Been trying to work out if my BOV's are atmosphere venting or not (its got a tuned ECU and it runs perfectly fine).

i've got a twin plate clutch, which lets the world know when I'm changing gears... usually followed by them looking at my car as if something fell off.

So that weird grinding noise that sounds like something is broken when you attempt to slip the clutch is normal? I apparently have a OS Giken twin plate). Of course normal driving its ok, and changing gears is ok too.

Regards,

Gareth

P.S. aren't "dose" pipes illegal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3481859
Share on other sites

With the standard bov, you can hear the 'ppshh' noise, but it's obviously not as loud as a atmo one. With my car, the bov doesn't open until you rev it above ~3krpm. So below that you'll hear a light flutter. This is all with a standard box as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3481947
Share on other sites

actually your cheapest possible way to get more noise out of your induction would be to remove the factory resonator that connects to your airbox.

how? lol

Access Autoworks in trade place off of canterbury road in vermont/nunawading is the australian distributor for apex'i

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3483719
Share on other sites

zoidberg_evil.jpg

I think at the P1 Xmas party, we need to flutter the Smart...

Wooo woo woo woo

p1 xmax party! omg... could there be a better party...???? one day , one day i tell you i will be able afford such a prestigous annual fee... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194157-mods-help/#findComment-3484919
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...