Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok

re-designed the heater hose system on my rb26.

Not keen on running the turbo coolant line around the back of the head. Personal preference.

This is what I came up with.

http://butters.throwinghandles.com/file_st...26Waterflow.JPG

Will it work ?

See any problems ?

Any suggestions ?

Can post up what it looked like orginally later tonight but keen to hear from guru's that already know the rb26 heater / water system.

Also please excuse the shitty paintshop pic .... drawing not my thing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194284-check-my-math-rb26-heater-hoses/
Share on other sites

Your diagram is a little too ghetto for me to even understand :P

Is it birds eye view? I spent a fair amount of time thinking about lines and what not, but still cant figure out your drawing, sorry man.

Edited by GeeTR

lol ghetto and I was going for more a punk style.

Its a birds eye view from the underneath which probably doesn't help things.

The right hand side is the front off the motor, the left the rear obvious.

The top section is the plenum side, underneath mostly or if the plenum wasn't there.

One thing to note the AAC / cold start valve has been removed from this system,. might be why it looks so foreign.

Edited by Butters

How is it I post a thread asking for help and end up just giving information away without anything back ???

Yes its messy, it is a mock up :)

Good Christ, your missing the ACC and distribution block thingo.

Yep I took it off :D

I think I give up with the help, cheers anyhow.

Can the mods delete or lock this thread ???? or can I do it ??

butters your drawing is quite easy to follow mate...if you know what your looking at and talking about.

the feed off the block (front and rear) can be ran under the engine and up to the heater core...the only problem i can see is the right angle bend through the firewall. As for the coolant feed around the back of engine, just block it off tee feeds together and run to the front.

butters your drawing is quite easy to follow mate...if you know what your looking at and talking about.
:)

I thought so but I drew it so made sense to me ... lol

the feed off the block (front and rear) can be ran under the engine and up to the heater core

Thats a good idea, Hadn't thought about that. Was stuck in the follow stock mode there.

That will make it a lot easier, cheers for that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...