Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a question regarding the atessa 4WD computer,

A cuple of weeks ago an old lady went up the back of me, didn't do much damage to me, just a broken rear bumper... little bits...

then about a week later I was just driving normally when my abs and 4WD light came on, don't know why, feel as though it was related to the crash.... now, every 2 days or less I will be doing nothing out of the ordinary and the warning lights will just come on... I pull over, wait for 5 minutes, turn on the car again and it seems to be fine for a little while.

My tuners believe it has something to do with the computer, not the reservoir in the boot, because I checked it and it is appears fine, so I am looking for a new computer...(IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY OTHER EXPERIENCES WITH THIS PLEASE POST) however, it is extremely hard to find a gts4 atessa computer, instead a GTR's one is easier to find, but I know they have their differences, for eg. the GTR has an atessa pro system running and a gts4 has just got an atessa...

Will it make a difference if I used a GTR one?

Thanks for your time.

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194480-atessa-computer-gts4-or-gtr/
Share on other sites

the 4wd / attessa system copies a few signals from the main ecu and they get relayed to the ECU in the boot

so passenger foot weel = main car ecu

boot under parcel shelf = 4wd / abs / active lsd computer

the main signals are speed, rpm and TPS

TPS is probably the main one as at car bootup if TPS is not present (to the 4wd computer) it will fail and give up

also if TPS goes out of whack at runtime then it will give up the ghost. check and trace the TPS wire or make sure your TPS wire at the 4wd computer has voltage at idle should be around 0.33v ish give or take.

Thanks for the help, but I have a few questions...

what does TPS stand for and what does it do?

when you said "goes out of whack at runtime then it will give up the ghost. " you did mean while driving yeh? because it doesn't come on straight away when I turn on the car.. could take an hour.. a day...

one thing that is strange though... whenever the abs system and 4wd system fail I can tell without even looking at the warning lights in the dash cluster because I feel it in the brake, feels like a lil lump for a second...

finally, if I got out a multimeter and checked to see voltage... what color would the wire be and Im assuming I would have to check when the warning lights come on?

OH.. one final thing... it may be related, but i'm not sure, I have one of those atessa controller things where you can set how much distribution of power to front or rear... I have never touched it in the past few weeks... (been too bloody dry to need it) ... could this have something to do with it?

Thanks again for the help,

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...