Jump to content
SAU Community

Atessa Computer Gts4 Or Gtr?

WYTSKY
 Share

Recommended Posts

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I have a question regarding the atessa 4WD computer,

A cuple of weeks ago an old lady went up the back of me, didn't do much damage to me, just a broken rear bumper... little bits...

then about a week later I was just driving normally when my abs and 4WD light came on, don't know why, feel as though it was related to the crash.... now, every 2 days or less I will be doing nothing out of the ordinary and the warning lights will just come on... I pull over, wait for 5 minutes, turn on the car again and it seems to be fine for a little while.

My tuners believe it has something to do with the computer, not the reservoir in the boot, because I checked it and it is appears fine, so I am looking for a new computer...(IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY OTHER EXPERIENCES WITH THIS PLEASE POST) however, it is extremely hard to find a gts4 atessa computer, instead a GTR's one is easier to find, but I know they have their differences, for eg. the GTR has an atessa pro system running and a gts4 has just got an atessa...

Will it make a difference if I used a GTR one?

Thanks for your time.

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194480-atessa-computer-gts4-or-gtr/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the 4wd / attessa system copies a few signals from the main ecu and they get relayed to the ECU in the boot

so passenger foot weel = main car ecu

boot under parcel shelf = 4wd / abs / active lsd computer

the main signals are speed, rpm and TPS

TPS is probably the main one as at car bootup if TPS is not present (to the 4wd computer) it will fail and give up

also if TPS goes out of whack at runtime then it will give up the ghost. check and trace the TPS wire or make sure your TPS wire at the 4wd computer has voltage at idle should be around 0.33v ish give or take.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help, but I have a few questions...

what does TPS stand for and what does it do?

when you said "goes out of whack at runtime then it will give up the ghost. " you did mean while driving yeh? because it doesn't come on straight away when I turn on the car.. could take an hour.. a day...

one thing that is strange though... whenever the abs system and 4wd system fail I can tell without even looking at the warning lights in the dash cluster because I feel it in the brake, feels like a lil lump for a second...

finally, if I got out a multimeter and checked to see voltage... what color would the wire be and Im assuming I would have to check when the warning lights come on?

OH.. one final thing... it may be related, but i'm not sure, I have one of those atessa controller things where you can set how much distribution of power to front or rear... I have never touched it in the past few weeks... (been too bloody dry to need it) ... could this have something to do with it?

Thanks again for the help,

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...