Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all I will be rebuilding my rb20 this winter and was wondering what the best turbo would be for response. I'm only looking for 300hp at the crank and want something responsive. Would an HKS 2530 be most suitable or a rb25 turbo? I'll be using an aftermarket intake manifold also. thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194490-best-rb20-turbo-setup/
Share on other sites

Hello all I will be rebuilding my rb20 this winter and was wondering what the best turbo would be for response. I'm only looking for 300hp at the crank and want something responsive. Would an HKS 2530 be most suitable or a rb25 turbo? I'll be using an aftermarket intake manifold also. thanks!

Shawn have a read through this it should help answer your question.

Other than upgrading turbo i take it you will be going usual supporting mods as well???

Your goal of 300hp should be fairly easily obtained and if not more if you have the right set up/tune :thumbsup:

Yup I read through that, but I'm wondering the laggyness of a 2530 compared to the rb25 turbo? I plan on doing coil packs, fuel control, injectors if needed, Cooler, N1 oil pump, new gaskets, rings, if I have the money new internals, little head work. I just don't want something powerful, I'd like it to be very responsive so I can use it on some small tracks and such and country roads.

Shawn have a read through this it should help answer your question.

Other than upgrading turbo i take it you will be going usual supporting mods as well???

Your goal of 300hp should be fairly easily obtained and if not more if you have the right set up/tune :verymad:

The 2530 is supposed to be the best turbo for response and power on the rb20, or so ive read

Theres going to be lag with any bigger turbo since its still an rb20

On the other hand, i'm running a GCG rb25 highflow on my rb20 and the response is pretty good

It wasn't that big of a difference in lag from the std turbo but it was pretty laggy for the first few days before i got used to it.

I get 12psi from around 3500rpm and 16psi at about 4200rpm compared to the std turbo 12psi at 2800rpm

I made 180rwkw on 14psi, couldn't go further coz my boost controller wouldn't hold any more boost steadily and the clutch couldn't hold any more power.

A highflow rb25 turbo would have similar boost response or just marginally poorer boost response on a rb20...almost unnoticeable...

Although...if ultimate response with a slight power increase with good reliability is what you want...it might be worth looking for a hks 2510 as well...you're not going to get a more responsive turbo than that...albeit with slightly less peak power again...its all a trade off...but the difference might not be as big as you think...maybe have pushed 200rwkw from those little things before...

Surely HKS do a GT-SS with a T3 flange?

High flow turbos suck. The wheels used mean they are generally around the 400hp to 450hp turbos which is way too big for what you are saying you need.

Then to make matter worse they never seem to make the 450 odd hp they are claimed to, so you are stuck with all that lag for only 220rwkws, when the recognised guys (garrett etc) that build 420hp turbos actually make 260rwkws etc. When a smaller GT2871 or something from Garret is only rated at 320-350hp or something and makes more then the high flows.... this is on RB20s anyway. The high flows seem to work a little better on RB25s

My RB20 made 183rwkw on 12psi with just a standard RB25 turbo (s1), made 12psi by 3500rpm. If that's all the power you're chasing then a 25 turbo is by far the cheapest way to go.

Guys he said 300hp at the crank..

Edited by bubba

Thing is the RB25 turbo doesnt really punch that hard. I know from when i have overlaid my TD06 sheet that at 3,800rpm i am making as much power as the typical RB25 turbo upgrade on an RB20. From 4,500rpm i am making over 200rwkws...so i think it would be interesting to see how a GT-SS would go on an RB20. It woudl punch harder then the RB25 turbo, be able to run 1.3bar albeit it will cost more. But the poster is looking at all sorts of other mods so surely the extra money on a quality turbo is money well spent ?

Thing is the RB25 turbo doesnt really punch that hard. I know from when i have overlaid my TD06 sheet that at 3,800rpm i am making as much power as the typical RB25 turbo upgrade on an RB20. From 4,500rpm i am making over 200rwkws...so i think it would be interesting to see how a GT-SS would go on an RB20. It woudl punch harder then the RB25 turbo, be able to run 1.3bar albeit it will cost more. But the poster is looking at all sorts of other mods so surely the extra money on a quality turbo is money well spent ?

He doesn't want 200rwkw though so it's pointless. IMO I think he's aiming pretty low.. 300hp @ crank is maybe 250rwhp, which is what my stock RB20 with RB25 turbo made without breaking a sweat. Obviously it's not as responsive as the stock turbo but if it's only aiming for 300hp @ crank then what's the point of spending bulk $$ on a name brand turbo and the supporting mods when all you need is a $300 RB25 turbo, fmic, mech. boost controller and a fuel pump.

Maybe we need a bit of feedback from the fella.

He doesn't want 200rwkw though so it's pointless. IMO I think he's aiming pretty low.. 300hp @ crank is maybe 250rwhp, which is what my stock RB20 with RB25 turbo made without breaking a sweat. Obviously it's not as responsive as the stock turbo but if it's only aiming for 300hp @ crank then what's the point of spending bulk $ on a name brand turbo and the supporting mods when all you need is a $300 RB25 turbo, fmic, mech. boost controller and a fuel pump.

Maybe we need a bit of feedback from the fella.

I wouldn't mind bumping up the hp (260rwkw) is my top goal) if the response is still there. I just don't want a huge HP laggy machine that is no fun to drive :(

Also what would be needed to rev higher safely in the drive train department?

hks2530 seems to be in mind..

Edited by sky_2.0T

2530 wont make 260 rwkw.. ever...

Go with a 3071R set up and you'll make the power... or something like Roy's set up which is a Trust kit, will also make the power. At the end of the day, the more power you want from the 20 means you will lose more down low..

I wouldn't mind bumping up the hp (260rwkw) is my top goal) if the response is still there. I just don't want a huge HP laggy machine that is no fun to drive :P

Also what would be needed to rev higher safely in the drive train department?

hks2530 seems to be in mind..

That is why I went RB30.. soon to have a GT35R strapped on :(

Edited by bubba

out of curiousity, the hks2510, what exhaust flange does that use? does it use a 6 bolt like the std. 20 turbo? I heard the 2510 is basically the same as the stock rb20 turbo with more top end, and can be boosted more. The 2530 is the 6 bolt pattern on the exhaust side I think...will probably go with the 2530. Anyone hear of haltech engine management?

300hp

Send the pistons through the hood if need be. Thats my motto.

I've just ordered a Garrett GT2860 (Infamous Disco Potato) and with just a rebuild with all new rings gaskets and graphite hot gaskets i'm going for whatever 18psi in normal driving and 22-24 psi with Boost Cool will give me.

Next year is an RB30/26 with twin disco potatos to build up for the following year. Saw a GTR for sale with twin GT2860 turbos at 16 psi making 500whp so i'm gonna step up with a rare RB engine combo (here).

Good luck. Checkout Garrett GT2860 (Disco Potato) and i hope not to see a post from you next year above mine how i just blew my stock RB20 at a retarded 24psi as i dont have allot of hope for my engine living through next year.

Edited by LedZepLen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...