Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no more fuel restrictors, since no more leaded fuel.

Assuming that all the parts are completely factory stock standard, and in very good condition, this is what needs to be done. (from memory, so I could be forgetting something)

add catalytic converter, brakes, oil, fuel, air filters, headlight conversion depending on the lights, head restraints modified, spare tyre sprayed mustard yellow, new australian chassis engraved, charcoal canister, full tune to meet emissions

any additions from some other compliance workshops care to help out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3490108
Share on other sites

The complete list that I do when compliancing an R34 is.

- Oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, new oil

- Headlights modified from the xenon globes to the H1's (if there nice, they can modify the headlights so it can be reconverted back to the xenon setup)

- 3 child restraits (some shops will only comply the R34 coupe's as 4 seaters so only use 2 restraits, GTR's are obviously a 4 seater anyway)

- Modify the drivers power window switch (to stop the window from being operated after the ignition is turned off)

- Cat convertor

- All new tyres with the proper DOT markings

- Genuine brake pads will need to be fitted if not

- Rotors at all correct thickness's with not too much of a large lip otherwise will need to be machined

- Brake line numbers must all have the correct markings

- Same with seat belts

- Various tests to be carried out to make sure emissions and sound levels are all correct

- Tint removed (if fitted)

- New carbon canister (whether its a nissan or aftermarket depends on the workshops evidence)

- Engine, unleaded and tyre stickers fitted

Also along with the fact of having all the standard parts fitted and in good condition

Remember that not all workshops have the same evidence for compliance but are all very similar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3490636
Share on other sites

The complete list that I do when compliancing an R34 is.

- Oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, new oil

- Headlights modified from the xenon globes to the H1's (if there nice, they can modify the headlights so it can be reconverted back to the xenon setup)

- 3 child restraits (some shops will only comply the R34 coupe's as 4 seaters so only use 2 restraits, GTR's are obviously a 4 seater anyway)

- Modify the drivers power window switch (to stop the window from being operated after the ignition is turned off)

- Cat convertor

- All new tyres with the proper DOT markings

- Genuine brake pads will need to be fitted if not

- Rotors at all correct thickness's with not too much of a large lip otherwise will need to be machined

- Brake line numbers must all have the correct markings

- Same with seat belts

- Various tests to be carried out to make sure emissions and sound levels are all correct

- Tint removed (if fitted)

- New carbon canister (whether its a nissan or aftermarket depends on the workshops evidence)

- Engine, unleaded and tyre stickers fitted

Also along with the fact of having all the standard parts fitted and in good condition

Remember that not all workshops have the same evidence for compliance but are all very similar

How much cost you for the modification to Australia standard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3503560
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Tint Removed?!?!?

This sounds like its going to be fun

So

I'm curious

How do you remove tint from factory fitted darkglass on a R34 GTR?

and WIll I have to do that? (on a personal import)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3531074
Share on other sites

For compliancing factory fitted dark glass is fine

Aftermarket tinting is not

And yes you will have to remove the tint before it goes over the pits

Cost for all the compliancing is different and depends on the RAWS workshop that is complying it.

If your looking for a rough price, check out this website

http://www.imports101.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3531688
Share on other sites

For compliancing factory fitted dark glass is fine

Aftermarket tinting is not

And yes you will have to remove the tint before it goes over the pits

Cost for all the compliancing is different and depends on the RAWS workshop that is complying it.

If your looking for a rough price, check out this website

http://www.imports101.com.au

Just to clarify on this you're referring to the front driver and passenger windows and not the rear windows?

For cars like the Stagea which comes with 'safety glass' do they all make it through because the front D&P windows aren't tinted?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3536441
Share on other sites

- Modify the drivers power window switch (to stop the window from being operated after the ignition is turned off)

My wife's car (not a Skyline) allows the windows (all of them) and the sunroof to be opened or closed after the ignition key is removed, until such time the driver's door is opened. Then it shuts off the electrical supply. There are thousands of other cars that do the same.

So why is a RAWS/SEVS import different?

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3546066
Share on other sites

My wife's car (not a Skyline) allows the windows (all of them) and the sunroof to be opened or closed after the ignition key is removed, until such time the driver's door is opened. Then it shuts off the electrical supply. There are thousands of other cars that do the same.

So why is a RAWS/SEVS import different?

Cheers

Gary

was it complied through RAWS or sevs? you wil tend to find alot of cars complied through sevs were half done and some wel basically nothing was done...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3551607
Share on other sites

- Headlights modified from the xenon globes to the H1's (if there nice, they can modify the headlights so it can be reconverted back to the xenon setup)

This must have been done to mine... how do i convert it back to Xenon type set up??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3554009
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

It has to be complied with a stock exhaust on it, but we can let you borrow one for free if you comply it with us.

cheers,

david @ carizma

also, feel free to start a new thread if you'd like, I'm sure the moderators won't mind.

Not trying to hijack the thread but sum questions here related to compliance.

Can you compile a vehicle with a Blitz Nur Spec exhaust system on it or is there a need to rivert it back to the stock exhaust (please see attached pic).

Thks

post-38971-1199600640_thumb.jpg

post-38971-1199600659_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194722-r34-compliance/#findComment-3566542
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...