Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been having this problem for the last few months now and it's seriously giving me the shits. I'm running a stock ECU (for the time being until i get some money together for a Microtech) and a HKS GT-RS turbo (list of other mods down below). Now the problem is with boost. Boost comes on nicely up to 0.5bar at about 2500rpm or so, then it very slowly goes up to 1.0bar at 6000rpm. From 6000rpm to 7000rpm it starts skyrocketing up to about 1.5bar. Im pretty sure if i didnt have a revlimiter it would keep climbing in boost.

Now i've read hundreds of threads on boostproblems/boost creep and a lot of people have problems with this so i've tried all the logical things that it could be:

1. Actuator: It's HKS one set to its longest point which should be 14psi, however when disconnected and the flap is wired all the way open it still makes boost, at about 4000rpm it kicks is and once again nearly up to 1-1.5bar, it goes so quick i cant tell the exact boost it reaches. So it's not actuator related.

2. Dump pipe: Boost control is sometimes altered by the setup of the dump pipe, either it sucking the flap open, or keeping it shut. Now i used to have a split BOS importing dump pipe and it used to do it, now i've changed into an all in one bellmouth X-Force dump pipe and it is still doing it. So it can't be the dump.

So everything points to the standard ECU either retarding the timing that much that it is somehow affecting boost, no idea how this could work but it's the only thing i have to go on. Has any one had any experience running a bigger turbo on a stock ECU. Is the change of plenum and turbo too much for a stock ECU to handle?? I really hope the Microtech will solve it, but if it doesn't im still going to have this problem. Why won't it hold 14psi!!!! And why does it take so long for it to reach 14psi?? It's like it's doing 2 opposite things, taking ages to make boost, then suddenly making heaps of boost.

Any help or input would be great.

Thanks :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194910-stock-ecu-and-bigger-turbo/
Share on other sites

earth your standard boost solenoid, if it fixes it, then read thru Sydneykids jaycar thread, and there is a photo showing how to re-route vaccum hoses.

Warning, check with a mechanic first, this might only help if your current wastegate setup is identical to stock bar the adjustment.

Well you shouldnt be running 14psi on the stock ECU anyhow.

Why it takes so long, probably because the stock ECU is shitting itself and retarding the timing from 4000-5000rpm.

Again, this is due to you running more boost (airflow) than the stock ECU accept in its wildest dreams.

So IMO. Put the stock actuator back on till you get a ECU.

Then go looking for issues with response etc etc

In all honesty your playing with fire with that setup

use a safc as a temp messure until you can afford the full ecu

Tried that, tuner said he couldn't tune it because of the amount of the boost skyrocketing. Looks like ill just have to get the Microtech ASAP.

Well you shouldnt be running 14psi on the stock ECU anyhow.

Why it takes so long, probably because the stock ECU is shitting itself and retarding the timing from 4000-5000rpm.

Again, this is due to you running more boost (airflow) than the stock ECU accept in its wildest dreams.

So IMO. Put the stock actuator back on till you get a ECU.

Then go looking for issues with response etc etc

In all honesty your playing with fire with that setup

So you agree that it's all in the ECU and that once the Microtech is in it should fix it all? This is the only thing that i can pinpoint it too. When you say im playing with fire, can it do much damage running it like that on the stock ECU? Like other than it running rich and retarding the timing, it doesn't seem to be knocking and aslong as i dont keep it above 6grand it doesnt overboost, so should it be allright for a little while longer? I'm looking at the microtech within the next month or two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...