Jump to content
SAU Community

Some Pics Of The Bn Sports Widebody Kit For The R32

funkymonkey

By funkymonkey,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

had a drive of a couple of cars we installed the copies of my kit on... and they're not exactly what you'd call streetable. at the end of the day if I put the kit on my car I wouldn't be able to thrash it around like I do now, and I'd hate to be forced to baby it around for fear of ruining it.

Probably OK for a show car that'll sit n look pretty or a drift car with a workshop/sponsor backing that can afford to throw it around... but for me the impracticality kinda won in the end.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ugh... we sell the copies of the kit for $3500, fitting and painting really depends on how much prep work you want done... if its a matter of doing it ghetto (bog and rivets) then it'd be cheap... but the way we do it is to take the panel back to metal to allow the fibreglass to bond better, then prep and paint.

here's one we're doing atm:

post-256-1196077537_thumb.jpg

the owner originally went to some bodyshop that did a really shocking job of it... when we got it there were more ripples on that kit than a pond on a rainy afternoon... so a lot of time was spent getting it smooth and ready for paint. Its a little different in that its getting an R34 front... but he's using the R32 wide guards, rad support and front bumper... which looks a little wierd as the R34's front is usually a lot higher than an R32... but hey, what the customer wants, the customer gets.

  • 3 weeks later...
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sure... the black one's finished, and sporting 10" wide 18" gold VS-XX's. The pics are at the workshop, so I'll post some pics up when I'm there next. It should be at autosmellon as its being built up as a show car.

oh and the kit in the pics is now sold :thanks: keep thinking I should've just put it on my car :domokun:

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

we do em at the workshop using the original lever assembly, relocated, so you can still release the fuel flap from inside the car. some people go ghetto n leave it off, and others leave the original one on with a step in from the wider guard to show that its a widebody.

ali-turko Grand Master

ali-turko

Posted
Posted

i have 12" wide wheels on the rear on mine and could easily fit 13s, i no fitting a gtst to kit to a gtr will bump them out bit more but 3"s, iv always wonder why that is,

u got any suggestions funkymonkey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...