Jump to content
SAU Community

Make Your Own Fibreglass Sub Box

jrocket

By jrocket,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
yeh DIY an fab are pretty much the same thing anyway in some aspects, since he fabricated this himself :P, cant wait to get back to aus and start this and the false floor on my car

thats the idea :P

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
tefu Contributor

tefu

Posted
Posted

another thing to remember when masking it, start from the bottom to the top so you don't have any leak of FB, I put 2-3 masking tape on my boot before fibreglassing and chuck some plastic (bins or even normal plastic bags) to cover the rest of the area, the last thing that you want is to get FB all over your car body.

If you are making a flat surface FB, use a thin wood (from bunnings) to help shape it up and the rest leave it to the bog :)

  • 1 month later...
jrocket Proficient

jrocket

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how was the mould taken out, easy??

Sorry bout the late reply. Yeah it was easy to take out of the boot once i made it. But at the same time i did design the box with ease of removal in mind. Therefore i didn't mold it in any way that would make hard to get out once the fibreglass was hard. I mean like dont mold it around the back of the framework of the boot making it impossible to remove LOL. >_< But yeah dont need to be a scientist to work that one out.

When it was hard i just grabbed onto both edges of the fibreglass and gave it a good old yank. It came out with the cardboard and all still attached to it. I then just pulled all the tap and cardboard off the fibreglass mold which was fairly easy. Ofcourse my cardboard mold did get distroyed. With the first few layers of the mold done i just worked on it on the bench putting more layers on it and shapping it etc.

I think there is like a release wax or something that you can use also, which can help ya remove from boot etc. But yeah didn't care about the cardboard template so i just ripped it all out together.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
3340TH Collaborator

3340TH

Posted
Posted

Think i might try this now....was just getting ready to start my boot, as the way it was set up b4 was a waste of space....cant be too much better as i have two 12" (alpine R)....wanna make as best as possible....where abouts do u get the fibreglass, from and how much do i need??? i bought a k and r touch up container, 500g for my bodykit and other little things but guessing this will not be enough, or is not the right stuff??

I will post up a photo of my fake floor this week (another idea if ppl want to try). I just used a big sheet of metal cut out to fit...is a little hard to get in but can be pulled in and out.

IDEA: I want to keep the spare tyre in the car, but noticed they not always gonna stay up and dont want to remove the stereo to pump up the tyre. So ive made this fake floor, but cut a hole in the metal where the valve is on the spare tyre. I carpeted right over the top of it and cut out a pizza shape (8 triangles) so once u pump up the tyre and pull out it falls back in place...but its not gonna bother anyway.

Put the two subs each side, mould them in NOW anyway :D Sit the boxes on the fake floor, and the distance between them will be a specific cut out between the subs to push them apart from to the wall; (fixing them, i believe this will be sufficent, correct me if im wrong)

The middle part will be mdf with a piece of stainless in the guts surround by carpet, will paint the alpine symbol on the stainless...for show reasons i guess.

So when i get a flat, unscrew the sub terminals, pull out the middle mdf, then the subs then the floor, then the tyre ;)

jrocket Proficient

jrocket

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got my fibreglass from Bunnings Warehouse. But i think that boat places etc can sell it cheaper. Also you will use alot of resin. Get more than you think you need. I started it and thought i had enough and ran out. Such a pain in the ass too when you are in the middle of it all.

My box still allows for easy access to the spare wheel. Reason i picked the drivers side of the boot to install the box was bacause the Jack is on the other side. Didn't want to make to impossible to get the jack out when i need it. I will be making a fake floor etc too soon. Might start that this week as a matter of fact :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shizu
      New r33 owner

      By Shizu · Posted

      Welcome buddy! Plenty on here and YouTube. What are your plans for it? Good luck with the Rwc and Rego bud!
    • soviet_merlin
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Love this so much! Please post a photo when you have a bike on the trailer.  I was a little bit worried about having a tow bar on the Skyline, but having it hidden behind the number plate is genius
    • MBS206
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Came here to say, put all the wiring from the new motor and gearbox in that you can, then throw the stock ECUs in the bin, and get an aftermarket ECU. Should be pretty easy if you can use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram to then use a PNP aftermarket ECU to suit the motors wiring loom, and make the minimal changes you will to get it to work in with the body loom (If any). This will mean you can very easily circumvent/bypass the Park/Neutral start disable switch, and get everything running really easy!
    • MBS206
      Rusty roof repair

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the roof is dual skinned the whole way, IE, there's a "top" metal piece, and a "bottom" metal piece, to slow it down as much as you practically can, you should be able to get an attachment for a spray can/your spray gun, where it is a long, thin flexible hose, and when you're "spraying" it is spraying it in every direction possible. The I'd get that, and feed it through the roof as much and as far as you can. It's basically like fish oiling the car, but you're soaking it in rust converter. Then do the fix like Murray has described having cleaned up the existing metal as much as you humanly can. I'd also throw as much rust converter on that exposed metal before putting the fibreglass/metal filler over everything.   As for welding a replacement in. I've owned my own MIG welder for about 10 years. I've also worked in an industry doing MIG welding for a job for about 3 months dead straight, and we were doing 11.5 hour work days 5 days a week, plus a Saturday 6 hour day. (I then moved over to running the massive CNC plasma as I could understand the technology, and work with the main guy out there). I also f**k around with my welders a bit at home. So what I'm saying here is, I've probably got more hours on a MIG gun than you'll manage to get under your sleeve doing home sorts of jobs over the next 5 years. I also have an ACDC TIG that I got myself a year or two back. I've got a short amount of experience on the TIG only. My home MIG is also presently setup for doing thin sheet metal. Unless I didn't care about how that roof looked, and I just wanted a functional metal roof, and it being out of alignment, warped, and bowed, I would NOT attempt a roof replacement UNLESS I could do it as a whole panel like Murray described where the spot welds were.  Welding has this REALLY annoying thing, where if you want something to be perfectly square, unless you can clamp that thing to damn perfection (Welding fixture table), it is NOT going to be square, so you start to learn, the type of metal you're working with, how thick it is etc, and weld in VERY specific ways, and by knowing how YOU are as a welder, so that as the welds cool, the metal work pulls itself into place. If you want to see some cool tricky shit done, Bennets Customs is an Aussie guy, and he mentions a guy a lot call "Kyle", who is from "Make It Kustom". Watch some of their welding videos, especially on sheet metal. You can use the welder to shrink the steel in, and you can also use the welder to stretch the panel out. When you have the skill level that I have, you can shrink the metal in and out... But never on purpose like those two guys do. You just manage to f**k it all up. Then I smack it around with a hammer till it sits lower than I will want it too, then I shove filler on top and then pray to deitys that I can sand it into some form of sane shape that doesn't look like a dog has taken a shit, after eating a tonne of pumice stone... I'm all for DIY, and for learning, and please, feel free to give it a go, but be aware, you need to live with the consequences of how time consuming it is to do, AND that it's going to look no where near as good as what you can make it look with just some filler now. Oh AND, even once you replace it, it's like to still rust away again eventually, because you'll have missed putting primer and paint on some part of the newly welded in sheet metal, or against part of the existing metal you couldn't get to...   Oh, and to weld all that in, you will need to pull the window out, and strip at least the roof and A Pillars of interior trim and wiring. You'll then need things like the big fire proof/weld spatter proof mats to lay down, OR you'll end up needing to strip the ENTIRE interior to avoid sending it all up in a ball of flames. If you want to see how annoying sheet metal is to weld, head to bunnings, buy there 600x600 1.6mm mild steel (Not GAL!) sheet, and cut a few pieces, and try and weld them together. Then understand, 1.6mm sheet is nearly 50 to 100% THICKER than the cars sheet metal.   The photos I posted before, I'm replacing with 1.2mm thick mild sheet, and it's very easy to blow through both the original steel (Especially if I hit an area that should have probably been cut out a bit more) or straight through the new sheet metal. And I'm doing the floor, which can be hidden easily, and doesn't matter how pretty I make it, as long as it's damn strong! I'm also doing it in a 4WD, that has seen many off road trails, and doesn't need to look that pretty ever
    • Murray_Calavera
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
×
×
  • Create New...