Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres a thread or two about this in the main forums, but I'm interested in seeing what people here use and recommend. Think I need to replace my pads soon. I'm pretty sure my car is running the stock GTS4 calipers on it, looks like 4 pot on the front and 2 pot on the back. (1 on each side of the disc rear, 2 each side disc front)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195359-brake-pad-recommendations/
Share on other sites

i've said many times before that i swear by the Ferodo DS2500. its fantastic on the track and great around town too. they do take a little warming up, but once you stand on the brakes 2-3 times, they work great (i do mean just regular braking, not a full hard stop).

however, now i am currently using Bendix Ultimate pads as these were recommended to me by a trusted source. i've heard very good things about them, so i decided to give them a go. they are much cheaper than the Ferodo's and they are also more widely avaliable and pretty easy to get (repco etc...).

you should research and see if the r32 GTS4 calipers and pads differ to those on the GTS-t. if they dont, then you wont have any probs in finding some good pads at a resonable price...

I think a20089 tried out the EBC Yellowstuff, ask him how he went (or he could post here :w00t:. I use EBC Red, so does Derek at 5th Gear in his 32. I'm happy with mine. I haven't run them on a track for a decent amount of time but they are (IMO) good on the road.

I think a20089 tried out the EBC Yellowstuff, ask him how he went (or he could post here :yes:.

Yes I've got the EBC yellow's front and rear. I can not fault them at the moment. They are however a bit on the dusty side but apart from that they seem great. Compare the differences between the EBC pads on their own website http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html Pay particular attention to the cold effectiveness compared to the reds, important particularly in Canberra winter.

If you want them I'd get them from overseas, Australia wanted $300 a set on a group buy, I got front and rear with shipping from America for $300 and I could have got them cheaper. (GTR brembo pads)

+1 for DS 2500, dust comes free. i swear there's more dust than pad by weight. i understand that Performance Friction have some new Endless pads that are as good and less dusty.

I've used DS2500's in my Datto (Comm calipers/Magna rotors) and they are great. They will take some track time without fade, don't need much to warm up, last for ages and my rotor face hasn't grooved at all. Probably a little overkill for just straight street use, but worth the money. Widely used in the rally community too. As for dust, they're not as bad as Bendix Ultimates. I guess the main issue is not being able to wash your car, but of course you are allowed to 'spot wash' with a bucket.

Saw you leaving work yesterday Chris, before that had been a while since I've seen the 32.

Take it easy.

Martin

Edited by Datman
  • 2 weeks later...

So what pads did you end up getting?

Here's another article on my type of pads.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Assets/vwdriverarticle.pdf

I've heard good stuff about the QFM stuff but that was from the owner, so it might be a little bit biased.

Hey this is a good topic i was wondering about this yesterday

i think i need new pads two or bigger brakes im not really sure they seem ok when ther cold and theres no squealing i just get bad brake shutter arfter a little bit of fun i think i just have the standard brakes any suggestions on what to upgrade to? and price? preferabley ones that are better when there hot, I just wanna have fun and not die :banana:

Thanks in advance for any help

Edited by R33Gtst Driver

if your getting a vibration or 'shudder', your disc's are probably be warped. they'll either need to be machined or you'll need to get new ones. they are pretty easy to find, Repco will order them in. not sure on price, but fronts would be up around the $500 (thats a guess)...

or

you might have a loose bolt or something down there if it only happens when your giving it some, but i'd put my money on the warped discs...

if your getting a vibration or 'shudder', your disc's are probably be warped. they'll either need to be machined or you'll need to get new ones. they are pretty easy to find, Repco will order them in. not sure on price, but fronts would be up around the $500 (thats a guess)...

or

you might have a loose bolt or something down there if it only happens when your giving it some, but i'd put my money on the warped discs...

Thanks heaps.

is this because they are standard brakes or old rotors? and will it happen alot? if so what brakes should i upgrade the brakes? or just get slotted rotors?

I dont think is a loose bolt but defenatly going to check :bunny: also could it be because i have 19s on the car?

Edited by R33Gtst Driver
Thanks heaps.

is this because they are standard brakes or old rotors? and will it happen alot? if so what brakes should i upgrade the brakes? or just get slotted rotors?

I dont think is a loose bolt but defenatly going to check :devil: also could it be because i have 19s on the car?

i dont think its your wheels, as you need to have a damaged or buckled wheel to get that kind of feeling, and it would do it all the time and affect your steering, not just when its hot. your rotors would be warped due to very high brake tempretures, the standard rotors cant disperse the heat and gas the way that slotted/vented rotors can. if you upgrade, go the DBA 4000 rotors and Bendix Ultimate pads, which you can get from Repco or anywhere like that....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...