Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, atm my car is on minimal mods probably pumping about 180rwkw with heavy duty clutch but the problem is its slipping nicely

The car goes into the workshop in about 2 - 3 weeks to get a makeover and should be hitting the 250+ rwkw

So i need a clutch that can handle the power but still retain the drive ability as its my daily driver..

I was recommended an Exedy 5 Puk clutch but others tell me its worse than a Button clutch to drive

Anyone recommend what to get

need to order it sometime this week.

cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195453-time-for-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/cgi-bin/m...main=nicsclutch

just put one of these in as my clutch was slipping to. grabs like a bitch, not to bad on feel although no where near as slippy as a standard (i bought modified nismo gtr pressure plate with 5 puck ceramic)

Edited by Pal

ive got an exedy cushion button + flywheel. its not as bad as it sounds mainly because its cushioned so you can slip it abit. pedal pressure is pretty heavy when first installed but after a while its almost feels the same as stock. maybe the left leg is conditioned to it now. engagement is great, may clunk a little at first in stop start conditions when your not used to how it engages. overall im happy with my buy. does what it does well.

Do a search for Jim Berry Raceclutch. Its all been covered before.

Wouldnt recommend Exedy from personal experience, useless imo.

If you dont machine the flywheel you wont get full contact and run the risk of slipping it in the early stages. For the extra $50 odd its well worth it.

The manufacturer doesnt always tell you but a clutch wont be covered under warranty unless the flywheel is machined.

don't even bother with the extreme. just got mine pulled out cause it was slipping and found that the clutch plate had worn away the pressure plate and flywheel and left the clutch plate in good condition. rand jim couple of weeks ago and for a heavy duty organic it will cost in the 850 mark, goes up from there. definitely get the flywheel machined.

Edited by Pal

the question you need to ask yourself is, are you willing to sacrifice a little bit of comfort for performance? It will be cheaper to get a twin plate cos it comes with a light flywheel and it will take the hammering. JB clutch is good (good feedback) abd NPC clutches. Now the thing is you have to take a look at the long temr costs of running and operation costs. JB wants A$800 for a single plate clutch rebuilt with a swap ove compared to NPC for under A$400. Now which one do you choose?

I did look into the clutch too. As im making 236.5kw@wheels. And the stage is a heavy car and i cant launch the car with the existing factory clutch. So i was looking at upgrading and took a look at JB and later i foind NPC which i think its a much cheaper option. BUT as im planning to make the car into the 320kw@wheels i started to dount the clutches (sinlge plate). So now i when out and buy the nismo twin plate ones. I havent received it yet but im confident that ie will be ok for a daily driven car. Just need pratising. Like i said before you can have comfort and performance. But if you are into performance go for the tinw plate. It will work out cheaper.

2c worth

Yudy

i run a nismo twin plate, drivers much better than my 9puk button clutch. takes abit to get uses to but the pedal isn't that heavy (near std feel) and it grabs like a s**t when you drop it :whistling:

plus nismo twin plates rebuild kits are only like $500

Edited by [Michael]

you should try and talk to people with the different setups you're thinking of getting and take the car for a drive. IMO brass/ceramic/puk clutch's are good for the track, but everyday driving will wear them out real quick, as mentioned above the disc is still in good condition but the flywheel and pressure plate wear out.

If the cars daily driven give it 9 - 12 months and you'll be having the box out paying more cash for a twin or something similar.

Cheers

I can vouch for the Exedy clutches.

I run with a GTR 4puk solid from Kudos and its unbelievably drivable. Its nicer than my old 9puk Xtreme clutch.

A mate has the GTST 3puk Exedy and that too feels awesome as mine does; apart from my heavier pedal they both have a smooth take up and can be driven normally extremely easy. Almost too easy as its definitely not a wise idea slipping ceramic clutch as they wear at an exponential rate.

Drive them correctly and u get good life. I got 70,000km's out of my old 9puk behind the rb30 and 100,000km's out of my original HD organic behind the rb20. The std nissan clutch shagged its self at 70,000km's.

Basically its a must to give a little distance and then lunge the car; try not to ride the clutch and once u get the hang of it driving a normal car and riding the clutch feels horrible. :P

Exedy GTR 4puk or the GTST 3puk FTW in my opinion. As I said, more drivable than my old 9puk Xtreme XHD. It feels much like a mates OS Giken twinplate. Nice smooth quick take up. The old 9puk used to shudder a little especially when reversing.

Honestly I was a little worried about the 4 and 3 puk within the exedy range but I really wouldn't be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...