Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

results= if your car is running lean, sluggish, wanting to stall or lacking power. change the o2 sensor. it may not look damaged but looks can be decieving, besides is ruining the mixture and possibly the engine worth $89?!?! i used a EL falcon sensor. it is a direct replacement with same circuit and 3 wire setup. simply crimp the similar wires up.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/O2...sor-t43095.html

hi. i only have a narrow band afr gauge, but it still gives good warning. used to beat any mildly modded car out there of equal size. now.... dead :*(

after 1-2 hrs of driving the car will lean out. the only time that it actually moves from its dormant position is when the clutch is in, or when i let off the accellerator. now it hasnt happened for a long time since ive upgraded from 95ron to 98 ron. the car feels sluggish, lacking power and little response.

r33 gtst.

engine mods= 3" exhaust

no cat

shielded/boxed pod with cai

nismo fpr

bosch 040, with dedicated earth and power, to get full 12v

fmic with water spray

boost controller. at time of incident was set to 8PSI

i will be resetting the ecu tomorro. also i will be tinkering with the fuel pressure. what is the MAX pressure that the injectors can handle, and do i measure the reading at idle?

thanks in advance

i hope with your help, i get it back to the piece of pride and joy that it used to be. CHEERS GUYS :rofl:

Edited by r33cruiser

fuel pressure at idle should be 35-40psi i think.

it wouldn't do you any good playing with the fuel pressure with the std ecu anyway

im gonna take a stab at the fuel pump being the culprit. since it only happens after a couple of hours the pumps probably getting hotter and not working properly.

Theres been a few threads about the 040's going bad when it gets hot.

T04gtr had a thread about it and im pretty sure cubes and guilt-toy had one along the same lines too.

it pops a bit in between gears. but it only coughs and splutters when u are rolling. eg when reverse parking etc.

if that is the fuel pump......makes sense. will have to have a look. the thing is IT HAS NEVER HAPPENED since i started using 98octane fuel?

anyway i will recheck all the usual culprits....fmic piping, connections, etc.

if all else fails will just borrow a mates 02 sensor and see what happens

thanks for the help guys.

most mechanics are like, r33 wtf is that?

Edited by r33cruiser

not audibly. but the lean warning went off, so i took it easy.

anyway guys i adjusted my fuel prs to 40psi at idle. it was originally at about 28psi. will take it for a run and see how it goes

hey guys.. replaced my o2 sensor and it is all sweet. must have been that. replaced it with an el falcon o2 sensor.

thanks to the guys who helped me, and a shout out to sunnycoast for explaining how a new o2 sensor helped him.

for u guys. here is the pics of the old sensor.

post-40676-1196565435_thumb.jpg

post-40676-1196565490_thumb.jpg

was in pretty bad shape. any skyline owners nightmare

95ron before. starting using 98 about 3 months ago.

thanks again to all the ppl that had suggestions :nyaanyaa:

results from new sensor= actually can run rich, or to my liking. does not run lean anymore. car pulls and pulls and pulls, more responsive. i havent noticed more efficiency, but it may be my fuel pressure tho. car is smooth, does not stall, shudder or pop/die off on idle or gear changes :w00t:

lol, admin u can close the thread now if u want

Edited by r33cruiser
  • 2 months later...

hey mate,

you serious about this? i got same problem... runs lean as!!

pops when changing gears, surges/ spulters to make power and fuel gets used quick!! does it after a while of driving... and yeah i got a new bosch 040 fitted aswell!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
×
×
  • Create New...