Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Friction Point

moobaque
 Share

Recommended Posts

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

Ive been doing some searching through the forums about adjusting the clutch friction point on a R33 Gtst and it seems that the only adjustment available is at the back of the clutch pedal.

Currently my clutch takes up with the pedal almost fully out. if i just have my foot resting on the clutch it can be enough to allow it to slip.

My problem is i dont see how adjusting the back of the pedal is going to be benificial in the sense that i just want the friction point to be further down the pedal stroke. But if i spin that U bracket up or down the thread, in my mind thats simply going to move the pedals resting position further or closer away from the firewall but the friction point on the pedal is still exactly the same. also keep in mind it doesnt appear that the piston going into the master cyclinder can come out and further if i was to spin the U bracket down the thread, but then expect to have the pedal return to the same position... if that makes any sense?

post-3061-1158191313.jpg <- clutch pedal attaches here

Please someone tell me i'm wrong coz i would really like to fix this... and im hoping my clutch just isnt to far warn....

Cheers

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195918-clutch-friction-point/
Share on other sites
chinkeboi Rising Star

chinkeboi

Posted
Posted

umm when my clutch cylinder leaked and had to get repaired.. it wasnt bled in properly. The clutch friction point was as what you describe. It was RIGHT at the top/end of the peddle.

I then took the car for a trash and noticed it was slipping like crazy from 4-6000 rpm.

Took car back to mech and he stuck his head under the dash where the pedals are and adjusted something.. the pedals friction point then sat at a lower position.

From what he told me... the clutch pedal should have some free play at the top of the pedal.. if it doesnt it could mean 1 of two things.. either

a. the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted

or

b. the clutch is on its way out

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I dont think the clutch is dead coz its been like the for quite a while and hasnt been gettin worse. i do also have a little bit of freeplay at the top but as soon as u get past that freeplay ur at the friction point. Ive never noticed it slip under load on the track either (lots of 5000 to 7000rpm)

heh this only started anoying me after i drove my mates r33 and the friction point was way down the bottom...

I was also under the impression that my clutch was standard but after this same drive in my mates car my pedal is WAY heavier than his... I guess this could just mean i havea different clutch... or maybe worth a bleed?

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i had the same case when my clutch wasn't bled properly. felt all funny n stuff. i bled it from both nipples properly and it's back to normal again.

mine has been this heavy from day 1 so its prolly just the way it is. but i think i will bleed it anyway coz i'll be pretty excited if it did become lighter.

gsf250 Apprentice

gsf250

Posted
Posted

my clutch was adjusted wrong by a mechanic and the friction point was moved to where yours is. Ive since fixed it and the friction point was returned to normal but the clutch is now dead.... 1 clutch kick too many oh well it lasted long enough for a stock clutch.

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok new questions to do with this whole clutch issue

I had a go at trying to move that U bracket to see if it would make the difference in the clutch pedal but I hit a bit of a snag.

i pulled the split pin and took out the short pin that links the U bracket to the back of the clutch pedal.. and thats about as far as i got. How do you get the clutch pedal far enough away from the U bracket so that you can spin it up or down the thread? Im really not keen on forcing the piston to lean up or down to try and get it out from the pedal.

Im sure it must be really simple, just couldnt work it out.

Cheers

Camden

mattymagoo22 Community Regular

mattymagoo22

Posted
Posted

Hey mate,

You don't need to remove the pin and springclip.

Just loosen the nut behind the U bracket and wind the pushrod counter-clockwise, after you've turned it say one rotation jump up into the seat start her up and see if the pedal is where you want it, adjust as necessary, once it is right lock the nut against the U bracket and you're set.

By winding the pushrod you are moving the postion of the U bracket. When the U bracket is moved the friction point changes in relation clutch pedal travel. If you look under the dash when you are adjusting the pedal you'll see the pad where the pedal rests. If the U bracket is too far out this will keep the pedal partially engaged, and the clutch will quickly wear out/slip. by moving it in you'll prevent this from happening because as the clutch wears the friction point will gradually get closer to the top.

After you've made the adjustment if the pedal doesn't feel right you may have air in the system and these systems are not fun to bleed.

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey mate,

You don't need to remove the pin and springclip.

Just loosen the nut behind the U bracket and wind the pushrod counter-clockwise, after you've turned it say one rotation jump up into the seat start her up and see if the pedal is where you want it, adjust as necessary, once it is right lock the nut against the U bracket and you're set.

By winding the pushrod you are moving the postion of the U bracket. When the U bracket is moved the friction point changes in relation clutch pedal travel. If you look under the dash when you are adjusting the pedal you'll see the pad where the pedal rests. If the U bracket is too far out this will keep the pedal partially engaged, and the clutch will quickly wear out/slip. by moving it in you'll prevent this from happening because as the clutch wears the friction point will gradually get closer to the top.

After you've made the adjustment if the pedal doesn't feel right you may have air in the system and these systems are not fun to bleed.

Awesome, so your saying there is no issue with the rod being spun inside the master cylinder. that i wasnt sure about. i'll give this a burl when i get a chance.

Cheers mate

Camden

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
what are you guys using to wind the pushrod? There is a bit of grip on there so I've been slowly adjusting with pliers but theres gotta be a better tool for the job

I just used some pliers as well. Bit slow but got there.

You guys are all weak, its not that hard to get down there... :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...