Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals.......

i just bought my new r34 4 door its running a r33 series 2 engine and drivetrain and mechanical lsd

I have got a t04z with a .7 housing on it and reall just upgrade every thing from ignition microtect lt10 computer fuel pumps injectors and a list of other stuff the only internal is a better head gasket........

wat would be the next thing to do im pushing 310kw at the rears on 17.1psi on a cold night at the dyno on 98 octane fuel. boost comes on around about 4 grand some people hate the lag but i just love how angry it is to drive:)

i was thinking maybe cams any help would be great

thanks

Edited by Camo34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/
Share on other sites

t04z and only running 17psi??? they dont come into there efficacy rating to about 24psi and over you could make more power with better response with a smaller turbo.... lol.

Yes go some cams, front facing plenum, and FORGIES. You should be able to make a lot more just by winding the boost up more.

Is it school holidays yet???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3512901
Share on other sites

lol settle guys, this guy is legit and is in my town.

Thats a bit strange though, only 310rwkw at 17psi on a TO4Z, which is capable of much more.

I run 314rwkw at 19psi, on a GT3076 - which makes almost the same curve as a 300rwkw NA V8 here, and plenty of torque (700nm at 3200rpm all the way to the limiter)

And why is there a R33 RB25 and drivetrain in there? There is nothing wrong with the Neo engine - The neo engines are actually better because they come equipped with GTR Rods, which are much bigger than the standard RB25 rods. So they are much stonger.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3513055
Share on other sites

curently i have

RB25DET 5 speed manual R33 motor and drivetrain motor has done 90 000kms

FMIC with custom stainless steel piping

GARRETT T04Z turbo with .7ar rear

custom stainless steel high mount manifold

TURBOSMART 38mm ultragate external gate

SPLITFIRE coil packs

MICROTECH LT10 engine management with 3 bar map sensor

EXEDY 5 puk sprung centre ceramic clutch

full custom stainless steel 3" exhaust + stainless steel screamer

custom stainless steel intake pipe

SARD 550cc injectors with collars

GREDDY type RS bov

MALPASSI rising rate adjsutable fuel pressure regulator

WALBRO hi flow fuel pump

GATES racing timing belt and water pump

BOOST FX short shifter GREDDY PROFEC E01 electronic bosot controller with LCD display

big brake upgrade with braided lines

GAB coilovers

rear camber arms

B&M oil filter relocation kit and 19row oil cooler

So your saying i should just go cams cam gear and wind the boost up ?

any idea wat stanard internal can take at all ?

Edited by Camo34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3513287
Share on other sites

yeh you realise that by simply bolting all your stuff up to a rb26 that your still in the same boat you are now, if anything the older 26 will have a higher chance of failure.

or was 8500 for a built 26? doubt it.

just rebuild the 25 with quality parts and get a decent intake plennum on it.

Edited by James_03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3513875
Share on other sites

sweet best place in brissy to get work done for a rebuilt rb25 is?

Most the placest in good old mackay just wanna screew more boost in to the stock engine and are telling me that it will be fine for years to come o.0

No offence to any tuners that read this that are from mackay.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3514457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...