Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well at work, sometime between 11-3 someone either reversed into the front of my car or used a foreign object to bend my numberplate on one side so it kinda closed. Peeved off that this happened and just wondering if a block of wood behind it and tapping it with a mallet would put it back to almost the original state. If anyone has put one back into shape then let me know lol.

pic : r33perplate-1.jpg

By the looks of it, it got hit by the corner or a towbar, but it must have been a low car to only hit the plate! If it was someone using an object of some kind then i hope you get hit by a bus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196256-numberplate-took-a-beating-today/
Share on other sites

Yup, will never be quite straight again. Have the same prob with the front plate on my SP23. got caught on my pants as I was walking past the front of the car, and bent the corner big time :) Never been straight since, so only way for 100% straight is to buy a new one.

thanks Nick :D always Mr. Info :)

Heard any more about a Melbourne move yet mate?

I'm heading over this weekend to meet a couple of people. Doubtful anything will happen at this stage i keep on hearing the same old crap of "i'll let you know soon"

like someone else said, lucky it was only your plates!

I laughed when i read u jumped on it lol, funny

By the way, spotted you at marion one evening last week, was gonna come over n say hello but thought i would have seemed a bit.. odd

new plates are something like $25 - have a splurge and buy new ones

They came out pretty good by beating them with a mallet lol

be glad its only your plate that is smashed :P

Little bit of damage on the front bar from their number plate screws (i think) but yeah pretty lucky

like someone else said, lucky it was only your plates!

I laughed when i read u jumped on it lol, funny

By the way, spotted you at marion one evening last week, was gonna come over n say hello but thought i would have seemed a bit.. odd

Heh, feel free if you see me to have a chat, even though the standard look on my face is probably stand-off ish when im walking around aimlessly lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...