Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ive got an R32 Gtr and i wanna do some sensible upgrades... and need some ideas..

Currently the car is stock other then coilovers, K&N Panel filter, and from what i can tell a Rein Hard exhaust.. (looks like a cat back)

so any ideas on what i could do next? open to all suggestions.. dont really wanna up the boost would like to find the power else where, im new to the turbo scene so want to learn..

also ive been looking at magazines with build segments but has anyone got any HPI mag Articles on the gtr?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196529-gtr-modification/
Share on other sites

I think you've got most of the basic mods already covered...you can remove the boost restrictor olive which will give you a couple more psi but on old stock ceramic turbos may not be a wise move. Im still new to the rb26 as well but I'd say upgrade to R34 N1 turbos with some 600/700/800cc injectors, a decent size FMIC and chuck a PowerFC in her and you can safely run 260-320awkw which should keep you happy for a while :)

Cheers!

Gagz

^^^

So dump + Front pipes.. how much am i looking at there..?

ive seen dump pipes on ebay for $170ish,... whats good? what to look for?

From Memory I paid about $1100 for HKS Dump and Front Pipes, and it will cost you about a grand to have them fitted...it is a bitch of a job!

I also added a Pair of GT2560r turbos's for I think about $2500 (fit at the same time as your Front and Dumps if you chose to replace)

Removed the boost restrictor and Made 315rwHP with a 12.6 QTR at 181kmh

Then I added a PFC ($1100 + dyno $400) upped the boost to about 18psi made 390rwHP and ran an 11.9 @ 190kmh

Doesn't cost $1k to fit dump+fronts, my exhaust bloke has fitted xforce dumps to numerous gtr's from underneath with the turbo's still on the car. Yes it's a bitch but it can be done.

So you'd know how much it costs then?

If so please post a cost so as we dont fill his head with false hope, as so many of these threads tend to do.

I did not get much change from a Local performance shop from a $1000 to have my HKS / Greddy Front and dump pipes fitted as well as 2 x new Turbos, and a quick run up on the dyno :P

I don't know the exact cost no however it is definitely under $1k to fit dumps+fronts. The reason it cost you so much is because you had your turbo's changed also which is labour intensive (8+ hrs which is still well under $1k).

Edited by benm
  • 6 months later...

get your dump pipes, fornt pipes, get a set of cam gears for more zippiness and quicker boost, ofcourse a apexi fc, your not required for a bigger cooler because stock gtr coolers hold over 300kw but if you got heaps of cahs lying around go for a trust or a arc or something, i got a trust one on my gtr and is excellent, just get a good boost controller if you got standard turbos because ntog ood taking the boost retrictor off with those turbos, you said you got filters and your cat back exhaust, put it to about 1 bar of boost and you should happily see about 230-240awkw and it will be a very nice street car just with those mild mods and then later on replace yopur turbos with something better, get some injectors, cams and you will see over 300awkw with a bit off boost and it will be lethal mate

actually wont cost nothing closer to a grand to fit dumps and front pipes,

chasers motorworks are fitting my cousins hpi dump pipes and his tomei cam gears in about a week for $280 but then plus tuning so maximum will cost him $400-$500, 1k is way too much, if you really want you can change your front pipes but ofcourse not the dumps, it will cost you about 1k to fit new turbos, dump pipes, front pipes to be fitted and tuned, i cant see it being more then that, anyway just letting yous guys know,

gl with it mate and i payed $1000 for my hks dump pipes and my bee-r fornt pipes FITTED lol but that was the bloke i bought my r32 gtr off about 2 yrs ago,

cheers tony

Edited by GTRBOS
Hey ive got an R32 Gtr and i wanna do some sensible upgrades... and need some ideas..

Currently the car is stock other then coilovers, K&N Panel filter, and from what i can tell a Rein Hard exhaust.. (looks like a cat back)

so any ideas on what i could do next? open to all suggestions.. dont really wanna up the boost would like to find the power else where, im new to the turbo scene so want to learn..

also ive been looking at magazines with build segments but has anyone got any HPI mag Articles on the gtr?

You got a budget?

1st of all get new Dump and Front pipes cause the stock R32 GTR ones a terrible. The Diametre is tiny and very restrictive.

If you don't want to boost up the turbos then exhaust is pretty much it. You can install twin air pods but I think most ppl here might say stick to your K&N Panel filter.

Keep your stock intercooler, blow off valve, don't need to upgrade these until heavy modification.

You could upgrade to a Lightweighted Flywheel, it can help with take off + upgrade to a heavy duty clutch.

why not just change them yourself? the bolts are pricks to get to and much wd40 will be used... oil even if its bad.. but otherwise... it wont be that bad.

just make sure you have gaskets ready to go on with your new parts and your great...

provided you have stands / role on's are easier, get under the went and remove the old exhaust... that is unless you pussies cant deal with a couple of bolts... shit a t25 isnt as bad to undo as t3's... they suck... >;p

be extremely careful not to snap the bolts.. if it starts to round.. just stop.. if you dont have a good set of tools don't bother i guess is the moral.

we arent talking about gear sets inside the gear box here... it's a piece of piss to pull of an exhaust.

fair enough..

well i recently discovered that it had a dodgy little cat converter on there restricting the shit out of it.. so thats been upgraded today.. and my mate thats doing it is Phat Pipes in Brisbane here (Excellent Reputation) anyway hes also giving me a quote to do the rest of the exhaust ie. front pipes and dumps..

but tell me whats the real difference in dumps and front pipes from brand to brand..

as ive seen so many different ones including cheap shit on ebay for $200.. all 3inch mandrel..

whats the difference?

it all depends what kind of material it is, some stainless is really shit but if you go for the hks or sopmething they are much better but in power wise they all do the same shit but its all aboutn reliability, dunp pipes dont give a massive difference but when you change the cat back and the cat or even get it highflowed or something(bash the cat out) that makes alot of difference but it is good to change the whole exhaust while your at it, i wasnt going to change my dumps until i bought new turbos but the bloke i purchased my car off had them there to put in this other gtr but i begged him for them and he said $700 and i negotiated with him so at the end of the day he supplied my hks dumps and also i bought bee-r front pipes which are worth about $600+ and i got it all for 1k fitted, i saved at least $1k just there, but mate just pay couple hundreds more and get yourself some good dump pipes, my cousin bought hpi dumps off one of my mates for $300 but they are second hand but dont seem to have any wholes or anything so even good second hand ones bro they all do the job mate

less restriction i really think mate, exhaust is probably the most important mod to change on any turbo car

+1

It frees up the exhaust flow allowing it flow quicker in resulting the car performing a lot smoother.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...