Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(Edit... Found info, thx)

Hi all.

Im new to the forums and driving a Skyline. Its all very exciting driving my new car after owning a Mazda 626 (84 model) for 11 years or so. :D

My questions is on insurance. Im thinking about going with Suncorp. $1200 compr. Well, thats what I got online. Yet to call em. Being 31yo male, no accident history or speeding fines, I thought this would be easy.

Im sure you guys can help me with a good mob to insure my new beast?

I am rather shocked at how Nissan Skyline owners are treated by a lot of insurance companies. My brother has a hotted up MR2 which rock's, yet he seems to get it easy. I always figured it was the driver, not the car that caused the accidents. Oh well, 'them's the breaks' I guess. :)

(my new car)

2888722.jpg

2888735.jpg

Edited by shnugs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196689-new-nissan-driver-seeks-info/
Share on other sites

When I got mine, rang NRMA and as soon as I said it was an import, the guy just said "we don't deal with imports" than there was an awkward silence. So I said "thanks, bye". Was expecting a bit more after being with them for years. Anyway, I'm with Shannons. Send a PM to _8005TED_ , works for them, I got a good deal through him.

Just make sure whoever you go with, if they say they allow "your choice of repairer" that it means exactly that. Many insurers say it, but when it comes crunch time, they say you have to get one quote from whoever you choose (your "choice") and then one from their list of recommended repairers. No prizes for guessing who will win the repair quote 99% of the time. That's NO choice if you ask me. That's how Just Cars works. Apparently Shannons have real choice of repairer but you must have your car garaged to go with them.

Just make sure whoever you go with, if they say they allow "your choice of repairer" that it means exactly that. Many insurers say it, but when it comes crunch time, they say you have to get one quote from whoever you choose (your "choice") and then one from their list of recommended repairers. No prizes for guessing who will win the repair quote 99% of the time. That's NO choice if you ask me. That's how Just Cars works. Apparently Shannons have real choice of repairer but you must have your car garaged to go with them.

ok really dumb and obvious but i need to clarify, when you say garaged do you mean it just needs to be stored in one at night/when not driveing? or it can't be your daily driver amd needs be treated like a show car is treated always garaged?

ok really dumb and obvious but i need to clarify, when you say garaged do you mean it just needs to be stored in one at night/when not driveing? or it can't be your daily driver amd needs be treated like a show car is treated always garaged?

It literally has to be garaged when at home, even if you park out the front and run upstairs to grab your wallet, they won't insure if its stolen from the font of your house. However, if you stay away from home, at a friends, in a motel, its covered. Its only not covered if its stolen from home and wasn't locked in the garage.

It literally has to be garaged when at home, even if you park out the front and run upstairs to grab your wallet, they won't insure if its stolen from the font of your house. However, if you stay away from home, at a friends, in a motel, its covered. Its only not covered if its stolen from home and wasn't locked in the garage.

thanks heaps LadyBytes

i dont like that i dont have a garage (but i have fast legs and base ball bat :w00t: ) what am i meant to do?

I dont have a garage either :) was considering changing to Shannons but I guess not..

I'm with Suncorp, they're seem to be ok, but I've never claimed so can't really say. Love their pay-by-the-month though, I couldnt survive without that, although they do charge a fee for the privilege unlike Shannons :banana:

Well I actually found someone. GIO insurance. They have a sub-branch called Custom Car Insurance. Charged me just over a $1000. Still a lot, but I was'nt very lucky with any others. Still, they seem pretty good and helpful.

Note I drive my car everyday, 31yo and no bad history with crime. Helps.. just a BIT!

:blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...