Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently upgraded my GTR, and got these bits leftover.

Item: Standard R34 GTR Roller Bearing Turbos including actuators from 1999 Skyline GTR non V-Spec

Age: 41,000kms

Condition: Very good, no shaft play

Price: $950 ono

To Fit: (What car) R32/R33/R34 GTR or any RB26DETT

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM or reply please

Comments: Removed due to turbo upgrade, were in excellent running condition. No problems whatsoever. Was running 1bar boost.

I also have the following standard parts from the same car, 1999 Skyline R34 GTR .I am open to offers also. All parts are in good condition. Might have some other bits I have forgotten about. Will keep post updated.

All parts have done less than 41,000kms

Intercooler - $350

Radiator - $200

Injectors/Fuel Rail/Regulator - $300

Cams and Cam Wheels - $300

Standard Clutch/Flywheel - $250 (Never been driven hard on, still in good nick. Upgraded to due to bigger power output)

Standard Coil Packs -$150 (Upgraded to Splitfire Coils)

Standard Dumps -$200

Standard Manifolds -$300

Strut Brace -$100

Standard AFM's -$250

Airbox and Lid -$200

Stock ECU (remapped) -$350

I prefer pickup in Sydney area, or can post at buyers expense.

Edited by Blue_GTR
hey mate, could ya tell me if them turbos had steel wheels or not?? cheers

To be honest, i dont know. Is there anyway i can distinguish if it is?

*In regards to the radiator Tony, i will arrange a pic. It is in excellent working condition, just upgraded while i was doing everything else.

hey mate, could ya tell me if them turbos had steel wheels or not?? cheers

If they are stock ites they are not steel, if he puts a pic of the exhaust side up, I can tell you for sure .

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...