Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently upgraded my GTR, and got these bits leftover.

Item: Standard R34 GTR Roller Bearing Turbos including actuators from 1999 Skyline GTR non V-Spec

Age: 41,000kms

Condition: Very good, no shaft play

Price: $950 ono

To Fit: (What car) R32/R33/R34 GTR or any RB26DETT

Location: Sydney

Contact: PM or reply please

Comments: Removed due to turbo upgrade, were in excellent running condition. No problems whatsoever. Was running 1bar boost.

I also have the following standard parts from the same car, 1999 Skyline R34 GTR .I am open to offers also. All parts are in good condition. Might have some other bits I have forgotten about. Will keep post updated.

All parts have done less than 41,000kms

Intercooler - $350

Radiator - $200

Injectors/Fuel Rail/Regulator - $300

Cams and Cam Wheels - $300

Standard Clutch/Flywheel - $250 (Never been driven hard on, still in good nick. Upgraded to due to bigger power output)

Standard Coil Packs -$150 (Upgraded to Splitfire Coils)

Standard Dumps -$200

Standard Manifolds -$300

Strut Brace -$100

Standard AFM's -$250

Airbox and Lid -$200

Stock ECU (remapped) -$350

I prefer pickup in Sydney area, or can post at buyers expense.

Edited by Blue_GTR
hey mate, could ya tell me if them turbos had steel wheels or not?? cheers

To be honest, i dont know. Is there anyway i can distinguish if it is?

*In regards to the radiator Tony, i will arrange a pic. It is in excellent working condition, just upgraded while i was doing everything else.

hey mate, could ya tell me if them turbos had steel wheels or not?? cheers

If they are stock ites they are not steel, if he puts a pic of the exhaust side up, I can tell you for sure .

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...