Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went down to see the boys at Creatd Motorsport last Friday just to get a check on the car to see if anything was up and a readout.

engine/performance wise only mods are:

-Gtech (Hybrid copy) FMIC,

-Drift Pod (with induction piping where old factory intercooler pipe was)

-boosted about 10.5psi

-full exhaust

stock: ecu, turbo, fuel pump, injectors, coils ect..

first run managed 196.4rwkw, was shocked as i was only expecting like 180. Then the second run it pumped out 200.5rwkw.

they said air/ fuel mixs were really good, and the curve was exeptional for a stock ecu with the mods

so yeah extreamly happy with the result.

just thought id share.

cheers

post-35246-1197270608_thumb.jpg

Edited by jake33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/
Share on other sites

MBS206.. i call brand new state of the art dyno dynamics dyno :P i made 206 on that one and 205 on another (the other was without pfc/straight thru exhaust/injectors) and ran 13.1@105mph :P

the tuner of that blokes car wont make up crap to keep the customer happy.. if the car makes 20kw or 400kw, then so be it.

Edited by LTHLRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3524750
Share on other sites

like mentioned above, numbers are numbers, track speed at the 1/4 mile is a good indicator of its true hp, not saying your result isnt accurate.

imo a dyno is just a tuning tool, i've seen far to many variences from dyno to dyno to believe hp readings. The only way to accurately compare cars on a dyno is to have one after another on the same day and same dyno, otherwise there are too many variables.

as long as the afr is safe, and its not knocking you should be happy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3524838
Share on other sites

Well yeah im very happy. Ha yeah the guys at Creatd said people would label it as a 'happy dyno' I even called B/S to it when i was there.

As said above, its a brand new dyno (6 months or so..) and has been checked/serviced and calibrated twice according to them. They claim its is extreamly accurate.

Considering i leterally drove it in and it went straight on to the dyno, with no fiddling, with timing or anything, and that was the result, im happy.

They almost didnt believe me when i told them the ecu was untouched and they suspected a re map, (hence why they checked after the first run) and for what mods im supporting we were expecting atound 170 to 180.

They also said its rare but not completely uncommon that it makes this sort of power considering the minimal mods.

some people only get like 160, where as some people will get 210 or whatever.. same car, same mods will have different readings due to condition and how well they are taken care of.

At the end of the day. its just a power run, im happy.

cheers

Edited by jake33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3525367
Share on other sites

no.. above said shorts have the usual sport short, inner undie section.

thus eliminating the need for actual undies.

Also, I will add that this result was with loss of traction.

If I had a new pair of Nikes and deflated the air bubble down to 15 psi, I would have no doubt cracked the 160kw mark.

AND

intake temps were 23 degrees and on a few odd occasions, the exhaust temps went up in small burst to about 45 degrees. :D

I think I had a few missfire issues on that run..

Next dyno day, I will have the new nikes, remove shirt for extra weight reduction.

I'm thinking I might add a bit of octane booster... I saw soem the other day called Mars... it came in bar form.

"I only eat things in Bar From"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197039-dyno-result/#findComment-3525801
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...