Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm after a new one for christmas but she needs to know what to buy, can any one suggest any other brands than snap on, the two that I like from the snap on range are:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

and

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

Is there any other options? I checked Halfords but even their so called proffesional range is very poor, flimsey looking units.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/
Share on other sites

i have just got the kingchrome big daddy tool box, very good quality, but i dont know if your willing to spend that much, but kingchrome is a good brand!!

you dont get the warrenty like you used to with snap on, now they say that they're tools can 'wear out over time' so yeh... not a complete 100% warrenty.

DO NOT GET SUPATOOL haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/#findComment-3525356
Share on other sites

One thing to think about as well is if you ever have to take tools out of your garage/house with you, you want something that is light and easy to move/carry.

I just put a deposit on a 9draw mega chest and some tools and i have a small porter chest that i can carry about 200 odd tools if i need to go anywhere :bunny:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/#findComment-3527589
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

wow.... epic digging skills there Terry.. back to 2007!

i worked with a few guys who would only buy snap on stuff... one guy spent over $5000 (aus) on a really nice tool box.. no tools, just box.. admittedly i would love that box.. but could think of alot better things to do with $5000.. ive nearly decked out my garage with equipment for that much

i have had a kincrome chest for nearly 8 years and it hasnt let me down.. it was a special edition box and is slightly different to the normal blue and red ones... but for 6 years that chest was used professionaly every day.. now its just at home..

basically its 1mm sheet metal.. bent up.. spot welded and glued together. the ball bearing slides are just pop riveted on.. there is nothing super fancy about the snap on boxes other than the unique drawer retaining system that the drawers will only open when you press the lever under the handle... i actually find the snap on slides to feel heavy, and the drawers are heavy and cumbersome.

but most reputable brands will have some sort of brake or catch so that the drawers wont slide out unless pulled.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/#findComment-5278301
Share on other sites

Honestly, if you want to invest 30 or 40 years into one box... Snap On is hard to go past.

I've worked on alot of superyachts... the only tool boxes that hold up and still work perfectly are the snap on boxes/draws. A constantly moving/ harsh marine enviroment is hard on any equipment.

J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/#findComment-5278418
Share on other sites

When you say toolbox do you mean just the box? Or full of tools?

My gf is considering an apprenticeship and looking at this:

http://www.4theshed.com.au/Products/7649-k...;utm_medium=cpc

Kinchrome also have a similar version on there website with 6 draws but its $1099 or similar at Autobarn.

Lifetime warranty....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/#findComment-5279582
Share on other sites

i have a kingchrome toolbox. and older version of this once http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catalogue/s...artnumber=K7769 (mine doesn't have the automatic drawer retention system)

it's great. solid as anything. didn't realise it was worth so much (missus bought it for me for xmas a few years back. think it cost her about $400 back then).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197122-toolbox-advice/#findComment-5280428
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...