Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving my GTR yesterday and noticed it was idling at about 1400rpm. Not positive as to why it was doing this but I believe it has some thing to do with the cold start, aac valve, or another idle system. It had done this before and all I did was turned it off for about a second and then started it again and it was fine, but in the latter 'fix' I was stationary. When I restarted the car when it was moving I noticed that the 4wd & ABS light were on. Now you all know what that means. RWD! So I went around a corner at a fairly quick pace and sure enough, no torque to the front wheels. With a grin on my face I went to the nearest dirt road I could find and spent the next 5 mins fishtailing down this dirt road with the front wheels totally dissengaged. I knew that this was a flaw/trick with the R32's so I figured, if I stop, everything should kick back in. And I was right, I stopped the car and the lights went off. I drive one way down the dirt road in RWD & drove back the otherway in AWD. So I have a few questions of course.

-What do I do about the idle problem?

-Does anyone else's R33 GTR do this?

-Will this damage the centre diff? (Even though I cant see myself making this an everyday event)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/
Share on other sites

-What do I do about the idle problem?

-Does anyone else's R33 GTR do this?

-Will this damage the centre diff? (Even though I cant see myself making this an everyday event)

Go see a mechanic about your idle :-)

Yes my ABS light came on once when I stalled her (shock horror, happens with a race clutch)

No idea on the diff damage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3530817
Share on other sites

With a grin on my face I went to the nearest dirt road I could find and spent the next 5 mins fishtailing down this dirt road with the front wheels totally dissengaged.

lol. GTR and dirt road, makes baby jesus cry

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3530927
Share on other sites

Yeah I figured the centre diff might suffer from doing that, and dont worry guys I had left that dirt road even before the dust had settled, wont be back either I just wanted to let everyone know what happens when you 're-fire' a 33 gtr.

About the idle, no-one has any ideas as to why or which component isnt working.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3531842
Share on other sites

aslong as you dont bottom out your awd will be perfectly fine on dirt as long as its not rwd permanently. Can the manual torque switch from a 34 work in a 33 or is there no solution for the 33 ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3532510
Share on other sites

aslong as you dont bottom out your awd will be perfectly fine on dirt as long as its not rwd permanently. Can the manual torque switch from a 34 work in a 33 or is there no solution for the 33 ?

i think you mean does the manual torque switch work from a 32 works in a 33

the answer is no unfortunately. The 33/34 can still use the torque splitter, but only to increase front torque, not decrease it or disable it to go RWD.

The reason for this is the 32 gtr is essentially a rwd car untill attessa kicks in and powers the front (thats also why the attessa seems lazier in a 32 than a 33/34), the 33/34 on the other hand always has power going to the front, around 5-10% from memory. By running a 33/34 in rwd, ie turning off attessa, it can damage the front diff as it relies on the attessa pump for lube, and with no attessa pump = no lube = damage.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3534537
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...