Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a heads up guys.My son purchased my R33 GTS-T off me when I leased a ForesterXT. Gee I loved that car. Anyway. He drove to golf at Kogarah Golf Course on thursday to play with a mate. he came back to it at 2.15pm and noticed the drivers door was unlocked. On opening the door he found the ignition switch was smashed on the floor but luckily nothing else but some coin and sunnies taken. It looks like the immobiliser stopped them getting away with it. The disturbing thing was they got in without damage to the locks or windows. We got it flat topped home . We were a bit suspious of a car that turned up and parked just opposite and watched us unload the car.I spoke to a mate who is a cop and gave him the rego of the car, though my son found out where the car is from and so we don't think it had anything to do with the attempt

We got a new barrel for the ignition and all is good. While talking to my local import shop they had heard of at least 6 cars stolen in the shire recently.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197721-be-careful-out-there/
Share on other sites

disable the door unlock button thingy on the drivers side of the car.

+1.. If it isn't disabled, that is exactly how they unlocked the door without braking anything.

It's very easy to slide a shim between the top of the drivers glass all the way down to the button and click, passenger door unlocked.

damn you guys have alot of theft up there in nsw :D

NSW sucks balls.

Skyline owners, actually anyone that owns something of value to thieves, unfortunately need to take precautions.

Alarm, immobiliser, where we park and at what time.

Even then a car can still be stolen.

Walking ftw :dry:

Cut the brown wire. This will disable the switch to open the passenger door. You will still be able to lock the passenger door with this same switch, but not unlock it.

As 'Pauls33' has stated in his DIY thread, the R33 and R34 GTR switch wires are also brown.

i put electrical tape over the button and put some plastic lid to block the button from being pushed up!!

dodgy diy for me ><

trying to find some other method without cutting the brown wire ><

maybe like a cap for the button?? any ideas ?!?!

Cut the brown wire. This will disable the switch to open the passenger door. You will still be able to lock the passenger door with this same switch, but not unlock it.

As 'Pauls33' has stated in his DIY thread, the R33 and R34 GTR switch wires are also brown.

Is it the same on a R34 GTT?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...