Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

This afternoon, my darling wife and I were driving around looking at blocks of land. Wait, it gets better! :banana: She got the Stag nose first into a driveway and decided to reverse out in a 3 point turn fashion, but went a bit too far and backed into a pile of gravel. Scraped the rear bar up, not terribly bad, so she tried again, and scraped the rear bar again, in a different spot this time!

So, along with fixing this minor damage, there is some other damage below the bump strip in other spots, and trying to colour match pearl white is going to be neigh-on impossible for me to do at home, soooooooooooo I was thinking of going 2 tone, with some kind of silvery metallic grey on the bottom half.

Can somebody please photochop a white S1 with the standard silver side strip and a 'gunmetal grey' (for a lack of better words) bottom half. I think it'll look good but if might look different in pictures than in my head.

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you got a sereis 1 pearl white??

I have some paint :P

easy to get made up, I went to Protec in SA - big paint place where I knew an insider (now in the mediteranians' sorry)

its two tins of seperate paint with proper detailed mixing instructions

hang on I'll grab them for the part numbers; I got them ready to touch up my rear bar (big 3qrtercircle-crack, was a spot repair in Japan that opened up again) and for my mirror repairs

1 tin is Code WK1 for 93-97 Nissan-Datsun "silky snow pearl" (group 2)

tint BC764 118.0grams

tint BC748 787.4grams

1000ml

2nd tin is Code G253 for BackgroundColours "grey" (group 1)

tint BC711 15.8grams

tint BC720 7.6grams

tint BC745 1081.6grams

tint BC787 15.4grams

1000ml

hope this helps, but sory I have to hold onto mine :rofl:

**

seen some pics of 2 tone Stags, not good. lol

unless you pick the right shade of colour I suppose, however Id do a full spray when it really needs it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3534604
Share on other sites

Hey all,

This afternoon, my darling wife and I were driving around looking at blocks of land. Wait, it gets better! :P She got the Stag nose first into a driveway and decided to reverse out in a 3 point turn fashion, but went a bit too far and backed into a pile of gravel. Scraped the rear bar up, not terribly bad, so she tried again, and scraped the rear bar again, in a different spot this time!

So, along with fixing this minor damage, there is some other damage below the bump strip in other spots, and trying to colour match pearl white is going to be neigh-on impossible for me to do at home, soooooooooooo I was thinking of going 2 tone, with some kind of silvery metallic grey on the bottom half.

Can somebody please photochop a white S1 with the standard silver side strip and a 'gunmetal grey' (for a lack of better words) bottom half. I think it'll look good but if might look different in pictures than in my head.

Cheers, Greg.

G`DAY Greg i have seen one in PERTH & i think it looked GOOD,if i see it around i will snap some photo`s & post them up,cheer`s chuckie.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3534836
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info guys! I've got a 2 tone R31 wagon (white over grey) and love the look, and to me, the Stag's have a natural shape to pull off the 2 tone look, staying with the silver bump strip.

I was thinking of R31 "Stormy Glow" in metallic, but how would metallic look with pearl white upper? Mixing metallic and pearl paints like that a bad idea?

How about the metallic grey from the R33's? Would that look OK? I want to stay with Nissan factory paint for ease of colour matching.

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3535271
Share on other sites

This was my old 33 in the Blue over Gunmetal Grey combination. Needless to say it turned quite a few heads when driving it :)

post-9170-1197803957_thumb.jpg

That is my favourite R33 colour...... with big white-spoke wheels they look awesome

funny you say Blue, always had arguments that it is Green.... I say green !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3539595
Share on other sites

That is my favourite R33 colour...... with big white-spoke wheels they look awesome

funny you say Blue, always had arguments that it is Green.... I say green !!

You say tomatas...i say tomatos lol. It was a pearl finish so it changed constantly with the light on it. Went from the blue you see, to maybe a slight tinge of green and also hint of purple in certain light. It looked best in dull overcast days or bright mid arvo sun after a wash!!I've never understood how cars I've seen in this colour have been sprayed all the same colour removing the gunmetal??? It just looks odd.... BTW i say BLUE!! :)

Edited by Topkart R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3539702
Share on other sites

Ahem.......back on topic fella's!!!! I'm the one in trouble here! :)

Was just thinking, the silver that's on the bump strip. How would the Stag look with that silver all over the bottom half of the car? Pearl White on top and Metallic Silver on the bottom. With a set of S15 rims. I'm liking the idea but worried it'll look like a big Suzuki Baleno wagon! :D Somebody PLEASE photochop it for me!!

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3539725
Share on other sites

pearl white over a real hot yellow on the bottom. Paint it all the way up to the body line above the door handles, level with the top of the tail lights. Never seen it done but its what i was originally going to paint my ford but couldnt get the paint in time.

mah lil gif sketch (didnt have photoshop) mspaint ftw

l_b9f5206904ad99db58cdf26f62cf9cdf.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3540958
Share on other sites

"and this was Stagea back when it was a baby - we called it R31 Skyline back then" It was so cute...

So ou are going for something that would still pass for factory as opposed to something that stands out like dogs balls?

Panda stagea?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3542373
Share on other sites

Thanks Al, but yes, that's WAY too much like Panda for my liking. Needs to be a dark silver/light grey colour, no where as dark as the one you have done.

Right concept though! And you can see why the 2 tone is addictive, yeah?? :D

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3542530
Share on other sites

l_af9892be1d08ab7cf8a70d2884ff725d.jpg

Just a quick one but if you want any more colours let me know. i think having the colour up to the body line looks much classier than just the height of the door protector strip....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3542581
Share on other sites

Munkyboy - That is perfect! I wasn't thinking of a lighter silver than the bump strip but that works so well, in a factory kind of way! What silver did you use? Or it's just a colour from the chart? And it's Christmas! The roof rails were designed to carry tinsel, nothing else!! :D

Stagecoach - As it is in Hobart, there is only 2 white Stags so being inconspicious is hard enough as it is!! I actually like the yellow/white combo up to the waistline, just not on my car!

And I'm only going up to the bump strip for several reasons. Less prep work has to be done, less paint is needed, 'should' take less time because I'm not worrying about door handles etc. We can't have the car off the road for anymore than 24 hours at a time because of my wife's work (finds out every morning if she's working), so working a smaller area is much easier for the time factor.

Thanks to everybody, but feel free to cut sick on the photochops! This could get interesting!

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197751-colour-advice/#findComment-3542723
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...