Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmmmmmm... just thinking y u would think a piece of machinery that has been moving up and down billions of times could never break down, loose its seal...

I would guess that for a given motor, the pistons in the motor would have gone up and down a couple of thousand times more than the piston in the BOV, i know what i would expect to leak first.

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That information is WAY off..

god there are some dumbshits on here

ok here i go

stock r33 bov which is NOT PLUMBED back so its running into the atmosphere ok

car runs on map sensor and i dont have all the stock plumbed back piping shit so i ran it atmosphere

bov leaks like a heap of shit,must i explain myself any fkn further or are u just another keyboard warrior wanker on here who pays every other c**t to do shit on there car?

thanx good day

god there are some dumbshits on here

ok here i go

stock r33 bov which is NOT PLUMBED back so its running into the atmosphere ok

car runs on map sensor and i dont have all the stock plumbed back piping shit so i ran it atmosphere

bov leaks like a heap of shit,must i explain myself any fkn further or are u just another keyboard warrior wanker on here who pays every other c**t to do shit on there car?

thanx good day

Ok, first i'll quote your initial post.

stock bovs are rubbish, leaking heaps of shit, done a trip 2 brissy other weekend, running stock bov, f**kin heap of shit leaking the whole time on light throttle could hear it just in vacum, so fkn annoying

Now for Abu's post in reply to yours.

That information is WAY off..

Now again yours in reply to Abu.

god there are some dumbshits on here

ok here i go

stock r33 bov which is NOT PLUMBED back so its running into the atmosphere ok

car runs on map sensor and i dont have all the stock plumbed back piping shit so i ran it atmosphere

bov leaks like a heap of shit,must i explain myself any fkn further or are u just another keyboard warrior wanker on here who pays every other c**t to do shit on there car?

thanx good day

Now I have much respect for you and this will not change my views on you. Same goes to abu, I feel he is a much respected member on this forum and he provides very usefull info and so do you also.

Now you've left out a very important piece of info in you first post and I have highlighted that above. Any person reading your initial post is not going to assume that you ran your stock bov to the atmosphere....thus in your view putting it in the piece of crap catagory.

As others have experienced, the stock bov is not crap if it is used as it was intended to be used, as a recirculating valve. Abu's reply was not out of line.

In fact it was your post that was mis-informing by leaving out a critical part of information.

Explanation and informaton is the key my friend.

So it turns out that it is not abu, but you that is the keyboard warrior today. Maybe your just having an off day, but regardless, the name throwing and "going off" at abu wasn't necessary.

I intend no offence to you by this post.

Thankyou for your time.

Edited by KeyMaker

Fellas, I think we've just gone a bit over board... back on topic...

I need an atmospheric BOV to not stall my car - how to do this?

I need the sucking and shshttt sound... man, I need it bad.

No it will not work.

Your AFM measures how much air is going into the engine, the ecu then uses that measuement of air going in to work out hom much fuel put in.

When you put on a BOV that vents air back to atmosphere (makes thats loud pschhh) your computer (thinking the air is still in the engine) puts in way too much fuel. This results in stalling, stuttering, big black exhaust smoke and a generally shithouse driving experience.

A 50/50 BOV still dumps 50% of the air that the ecu expects, so it still causes a problem. Just leave it stock FFS!

*On a side note I changed my spark plugs on the weekend and forgot to put the BOV return pipe back on, as i changed gears i got the atmo bov noise. But it made the car feel so sluggish on gear changes, spat so much black smoke I cant imagine how anyone could deal with that just for a little ghey sound*

Yeah mate, thanks so much for your advice... it is much appreciated....

You ironed it out nicely - enough said, I concur with your point (and those others have made too)...

That's right fellas... stock then it works and runs better but no sound... atmo BOV and the car runs lean, stalls like shit and performs less efficiently.... ok, I'll go stock... thanks.

Fellas, I think we've just gone a bit over board... back on topic...

I need an atmospheric BOV to not stall my car - how to do this?

I need the sucking and shshttt sound... man, I need it bad.

have you been reading??

the GFB Stealth-fx does what you want.......................

have you been reading??

the GFB Stealth-fx does what you want.......................

Apparently it doesn't... as it's only 50 50 plumb back... if I plumb it all back then same thing as stock.

Thanks.

Apparently it doesn't... as it's only 50 50 plumb back... if I plumb it all back then same thing as stock.

Thanks.

No its not, you can adjust it to fully plumb back or fully atmo, or any config in between. The whole idea of this BOV is so you adjust the volume of the noise you want, i have this on my car and if you set it up right the car doesn't stall on full atmo. I live in NSW and unfortunately it is a defect here, Although i had mine adjust to full plumb back the cop said i could adjust it at any time so defect time. And i too got sick of the noise thats why i had it full PB. I don't know about the laws in VIC.

No its not, you can adjust it to fully plumb back or fully atmo, or any config in between. The whole idea of this BOV is so you adjust the volume of the noise you want, i have this on my car and if you set it up right the car doesn't stall on full atmo. I live in NSW and unfortunately it is a defect here, Although i had mine adjust to full plumb back the cop said i could adjust it at any time so defect time. And i too got sick of the noise thats why i had it full PB. I don't know about the laws in VIC.

Full atmo on your bov is just like full atmo on any other bov mate.

PLEASE LOCK THIS THREAD. I cant take it anymore!!!

stolen s15 could you please explain what you mean?

I think you taken my reply the wrong way, i was reply to his post stating that the GFB FX was a 50/50 BOV i was only trying to clear this up by saying it could 100% atmo, 100% plump or anything in beween. I too have gone back to stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...