Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i thought i might start a new topic about the problem we were having in doing the turbo conversion on my NA R33.

I have another topic relating to the conversion, but ppl might not read it as much and i wont get the same feedback.

Basically when we tried to do the conversion we had a problem locating the Oil Feed line, so we can run the oil line to the turbo. We have been told that they are already on the engine block and they are blocked of with some sort of a bung/nut. We only found one of these bung/nuts and when we took it off it started leaking coolant. There was one hole in the block, that we thought was the Oil feed line but that didnt have any oil coming out of it and wasnt blocked off by a nut.

Other people have said that you need to drill a new oil feed line into the block.

Here are a few comments from people that i found when i was searching on this topic. They are from seperate people.

1. OK take the oil feed from the oil pressure location by fitting a T-piece, run the return into your sump (take it off to fit a return connection for a hose through the side wall) The water feed can come from your heater hoses system (ie feed and return for the heater core)

2. I am pretty sure all the stuff is already there. They are just blanked off with bolts instead of having the banjo fitting. The oil return is the large one on the exhaust side above the sump. Just get the right fitting and away you go. Then there should be a bolt to undo on the block just above that half way up. That's the oil feed.

Basically i need the right answer, so many people with so many different answers.

I think Unarmed_skyline has a better idea of what im talking about as he was the one doing the conversion for me.

Please help me out and tell me exactly where to locate the oil feed line, or other solutions to the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198066-oil-lines-for-de-t/
Share on other sites

i wouldnt run an oil feed from a tee piece from the oil pressure location - its a good way to kill a turbo if the tee breaks (and they do - ive seen pictures.....)

i thought there was blanked up bolts on the block - maybe it depends on how old the engine is????

i wouldnt run an oil feed from a tee piece from the oil pressure location - its a good way to kill a turbo if the tee breaks (and they do - ive seen pictures.....)

i thought there was blanked up bolts on the block - maybe it depends on how old the engine is????

the best outcome would be that there are blanked up bolts on the block and maybe we missed them or looking at the wrong place, i dont c how this could be done

The engine is a Series 2 1996, could there be a difference between Series 1 and 2 engines, maybe the series 1 had the blanked of bolts and the series 2 doesnt, just a thought

just drill and tap your own holes. im pretty sure alot of sr20de+t ppl do it that way.

make sure you get it done properly and no metal shavings fall inside the engine.

This is the easiest..

but why drill if there is a stock option available..

Hay Albii.. Ill take more pics and talk soon..

Ill see if I have time on the weekend to take the heat cover off dads Rb25DET and take piccies

i've been working the last couple of dayz so havent been able to check mine yet.

From memory my block had 4 blanking plus, 1 of which was oil feed 1 was coolant feed and didnt know what the other 2 were for.

on Albii's block there were only 3 and only one had a blanking plug on it. i got tommorow off so ill take a pic of how mine looks and check back with you's then

thanks heaps everyoone,

hopefully with everyones knowledge we can solve this problem, and i hope it doesnt take too long lol.

This is from a guy who done the conversion to his car, hopefully it will help when ppl are looking at their blocks and even myne once we try to do it again.

You will find the big oil return plug just above the sump on the exhaust side, its a fair size, you just use a 1/2 inch (from memory) socket drive and unscrew it, the oil feed is a small bolt thats in the side of the block a little further up directly above the oil return mate. Unscrew both and make sure you use copper washers on your oil feed banjo bolt, or oil will piss out everywhere.

cheers, albii

nah the coolant return in on the back of the motor and the oil return isn't on the na blocks and its in the wrong spot and wrong size, i think they are just for matinence.

Hey albii thats how it was with my car but on yours you don't have the blanking plugs

Hay Albii..

Maby you should post up the pics I sent you of the block?.. someone may be able to identify them?

Or post in the turbo section? Im 100% sure someone will be able to point out which one is which.. and then from there you can compaire with an NA block and see if the lines are blocked.. or you need to tap into the appropriate places..

hey peepz, havent been on in ages so yeh jst a reply..

here are pics from GTS4WD and Eug... hoepfully some1 can identify which lines are wat and if they can be found on the NA block...

Also wat other options do i have, i dont want to drill holes into my block,.

post-41800-1198674074_thumb.jpg

post-41800-1198674284_thumb.jpg

post-41800-1198674415_thumb.jpg

hey eug great pic that helps heaps, see the oil feed line on that block! on mine it was capped off with a plug, but on albi's it was open and not blocked off, we even tried fitting the line in and cranking the motor to see if there was any oil squirting out and nothing with comming out so not sure how its blocked off

you could have some crap stuck in there causing the blockage?

i am 99% sure those are the correct provisions, compare it against an RB25DET just to confirm it. i don't want to be the reason you have a failed turbo.

it is the correct spot i just checked with my car, although the problem is i was trying to run the feed line for albi's car and that feed hole is normally blocked off with a bolt which wasnt there and so im not sure how its blocked off as i put a screw drived to test depth on the hole, and it went in a good 2-3 inchs before getting stopped so in thery there should be oil comming out of it but it was never blocked off in the first place so im stumped as to how its blocked

is there even any oil in the gallery? is the head off the block? or is it all still together on the car?

if the head is still on, maybe the gasket has no holes for that particular gallery.

did you try to rev the motor quickly to increase oil pressure?

the engine is still all together, the head has not been removed, and yes i tried reving the motor whilst it was turned off, but enven if i had not the gallery was never blocked off so if i had not have tried the gallery would have been pissing out with oil when in normal driving as there was not blanking bolt (or whatever u call it). But even so when i tried fitting the olt and bango fitting into the the block and started and reved the engine there was still no oil coming out, so it just exmplify's my thought that it is blocked off somewher but im not sure where, what can i do to find out where it is blocked off without removing the head or drilling any hole, im assuming for some reason it may be welded or blocked shut from the inside of the block (which would be impossible for me to un-do without removing the head), in japan for some reason, mabye to convert the engine to na from turbo with a piston change (possibly fetching more money as na's with current flux in na prices) i cannot think of any other reason for this to have been done as it still has the thread for the blanking plus so why change the blocking off proceedures between series 1 & 2 blocks??

anyone got any ideas???? i need a few idea to brainstorm at least!

ps from eugs last pic with circled lines as for oil lines the top left one is the feed line which we are talking about the bottom left one which is the oil return i'm quite sure is not on the na blocks as i've never seen one the other is the water return line!.

i agree, unless it's been blocked off via gasket/welding/grout filled there should be oil in the gallery.

is there residue oil in the gallery?

have you tried to see if oil comes out without using the oil lines?

possible blocked oil lines? (creased/folded/blocked banjo)

maybe the head doesn't have the oil provision? that would be bad.

the conversion has been done heaps of times, i can't see why albii's should be any different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...