Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

As the topic suggests, anyone done a R33-R34 front conversion yet? I am very interested in doing this - how hard would it be, what would be involved and what would costs look like?

What can I say, a flawless R33 body and tough back lights with a breath-taking R34 front bar - damn, if only such a car is sold on the market... no other car would come close.

Please post up some pictures and/or your experiences.

Thanks all.

Pictures:

10ej0c4.jpg

10ej0ns.jpg

10ej2qc.jpg

10ej2v6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198078-any-r334s-out-there/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When I read the subject line I thought "oh no, dont tell me..."

but when I saw the pics I thought that actually doesn't look too bad.

I'm all for making your car unique as long as it still looks good and IMO this fits the bill perfectly.

If you did this you'd have one VERY unique ride >_< would turn heads for sure!

That looks tough as! I probably couldn't justifying spending so much to do it though. Probably better off selling the 33 and getting a 34, but even then you wouldn't have a 34 gtr kit on it.

just buy an r34...

i dont know why ppl do this shit....

its like 34 gtr fronts on stageas, i dont like them either.

waste of time and money imo.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

atleast here u still have the nice flowing lines of a r33 with the sharp bulbous nose of the 34.

best of both worlds

u see how it looks low and sharp. where as if he bought a 34 is would look shit

Edited by r33cruiser
nice job, but still not worth the cash

for the money you'd pay you can get a 34

Actually, it doesn't cost all that much considering.

A couple of thousand inc panels.

And considering people are struggling to sell R33s for $13000 these days, it's a far sight less then buying an decent 34.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

Not sure what 34's you've been looking at. The only reason that 33 looks low is because of the rear bar. Get a similar thing on a 34 and it'll look low as.

people do this because apart from the front nose all r34 look shit house. the rear is 10 metres off the ground and porpoise like a bitch. they are big fat bricks with no incling of aerodynamics.

atleast here u still have the nice flowing lines of a r33 with the sharp bulbous nose of the 34.

best of both worlds

u see how it looks low and sharp. where as if he bought a 34 is would look shit

Couldn't have said it any better... you stole my words... exactly mate, and this is totally personal - but the R33 has very fine looking lines, a great shape and a timeless look to it... the front is tough as too so overall, in my opinion; the R33 if modified cosmetically right (or R33 GTR stock) looks awesome... having said that... the R34 front is (especially on the GTR) is... damn... I'm stuck for words... totally jaw-dropping... very nice... hence, a lot of people do this conversion as you get best of both worlds...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...