Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I think this might be my first post but any way i have problems :D

The car taking ages to turn over when cold and not as long when hot. When its cold it takes many pumps of the pedal and 2 or 3 turns of the key as to not kill the starter.

When the car is hot its the similar but doesnt need as much pushing of the pedal to fire.

I changed the spark plugs thinking that it might be them....but no

Changed the fuel filter....but no.

Tried taking air-filter off to start car....but no.

The car doesnt feel down on power so not the fuel pump? it's only a starting issue.

Don't know what else i can try? so im looking for suggestions.

The car does have a Mines ECU (which i was stoked to find) but it hadnt effected the starting before. Also has a 3 inch off the dump pipe, CAT and a choking blitz muffler on the back. Other than that, it's stock.

It's been a couple of weeks like this now.

Im after any ideas any of you might have.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198298-2000-stagea-s-tune-starting-issue/
Share on other sites

cold days/nights my car is the same, doesnt fire, plugs are fine etc, everything has been serviced, hot days its fine. New pump will go in soon and will be checking fault codes when the informeter arrives... let me know how you go. I didn't gap my plugs down, could that be it?

Now winter is over i have no probs :D

Edited by Ryan1600

when i first got my car i had heaps of problems getting her to start to the point it would take you 5 or 6 pushes on the pedal while you were trying to start it to actually get it going.... my problem was the fact the compliancer had run her out of petrol...2 or 3 weeks later when i had good fuel in her she was fine...now 12months down the track still no problems at all *crosses fingers*

when i first got my car i had heaps of problems getting her to start to the point it would take you 5 or 6 pushes on the pedal while you were trying to start it to actually get it going.... my problem was the fact the compliancer had run her out of petrol...2 or 3 weeks later when i had good fuel in her she was fine...now 12months down the track still no problems at all *crosses fingers*

I keep mine over half a tank with 98 or 100RON

You shouldn't be pumping the pedal on ANY fuel-injected car when you're starting it - it's all controlled electronically, so there's no need for you to try and add more fuel to get it started. This might be part of the problem.

Also, have you checked the small in-line fuel filter near the tank? That often gets clogged first as it's the nearest filter to the tank, so have a look to see if there's anything blocking it.

Oh, and like Kirstie, I never let my fuel level drop below a quarter tank - when the level gets that low there's more of a chance that it the pump will pick up all of the crap that sits on the bottom of the tank, and then your filters will get clogged more quickly.

You shouldn't be pumping the pedal on ANY fuel-injected car when you're starting it - it's all controlled electronically, so there's no need for you to try and add more fuel to get it started. This might be part of the problem.

Also, have you checked the small in-line fuel filter near the tank? That often gets clogged first as it's the nearest filter to the tank, so have a look to see if there's anything blocking it.

Oh, and like Kirstie, I never let my fuel level drop below a quarter tank - when the level gets that low there's more of a chance that it the pump will pick up all of the crap that sits on the bottom of the tank, and then your filters will get clogged more quickly.

on a cold day, pumping is the only way to start it, could be TPS? Also primed the pump a few times before starting, doesn't make a difference

pumping the pedal - yeah.. not a good idea on an EFI car. the only time you should be screwing with the accelerator on startup is if you think the car is " flooded" with fuel .

opening the throttle body butterfly valve will allow more air inside and hopefully get rid of some of the excess fuel vapours and also allow a bit more air in there so that the mixture will eventually fire.

have you tried changing the heat range of your plugs? ie go hotter or colder?

what do the plug tips look like when you take them out .. can you show us a pic?

can you hear the fuel pump prime?

is the edge of the butterfly valve in the throttle body clean? or is it gunked up?

from what I understand ( least on sr20's / my RB knowledge is still on a learning curve) there is a small pin hole that lets a bit of air past hte butterfly valve on idle - and maybe check your idle air control valve? they sometimes get gunked up and need a clean

where exactly is that filter?

Some EFI cars have them, not all - haven't checked the Stagea, so I don't know if there is one there or not. It's usually in the line just after where the fuel lines come out of the tank. My old man's Camry (from way back when) had one that got clogged on the way down to Melbourne one year which had him scratching his head for quite a while until it was pointed out by someone else.

I've seen it on a few cars, but I couldn't confirm if the Stagea has one or not as I've never checked for it.

or if you dont want to get the fuel injectors cleaner you can pump United fuel Boost 98 which is able to clean the lines cos of the ethanol added into it. Im using boost 98 most of the time. If i have the coupond fuel vouchers i will use it.

pumping the pedal - yeah.. not a good idea on an EFI car. the only time you should be screwing with the accelerator on startup is if you think the car is " flooded" with fuel .

opening the throttle body butterfly valve will allow more air inside and hopefully get rid of some of the excess fuel vapours and also allow a bit more air in there so that the mixture will eventually fire.

have you tried changing the heat range of your plugs? ie go hotter or colder?

what do the plug tips look like when you take them out .. can you show us a pic?

can you hear the fuel pump prime?

can hear it prime, then stop, turn acc off, then back on to reprime... When i pull everything apart to clean it, any directions as to what i am cleaning, what to use to clean it, and can i stuff any adjustments whilst doing it?

-Ryan :D

Fuel pump switches off once there is pressure in the system and the engine is not running so no need to keep pumping to maintain pressure. Switching it on and off multiple times won't make any difference, the fuel system is either pressurised, or not... Happening when it's cold suggests it might be a sensor playing up... Check error codes would be a good start.

well I dont know for sure..( as I have only cleaned the IAC valve on the pulsar ) but I would assume the same thing applies to the RB motors.

what do the sparkplugs look like? is the colour ok ?

can hear it prime, then stop, turn acc off, then back on to reprime... When i pull everything apart to clean it, any directions as to what i am cleaning, what to use to clean it, and can i stuff any adjustments whilst doing it?

-Ryan :D

Update....

I know you're not supposed to pump the pedal, but if i didnt it would probly just crank all day and not fire. Sometimes it will start first go but rarely.

It feels like its starting to lose some down low power, but is almost as fast at hight revs 4500+

Can't hear fuel pump prime, ive never been able to hear a stock fuel pump prime in any car.

Is it possible the fuel pump could be dying? A mates sprinter would start but stall past 3000rpm = stuffed fuel pump. Another mates silvia would lose power at 5000rpm and stall pretty much = stuffed fuel pump again.

But mine not getting fuel at start up = stuffed fuel pump?!?

A dirty/rooted O2 sensor do it?

The plugs that i took out of the car, the tips were white possibly too hot?. not fouled and black.

I might check out the throttle body tomorrow, when i did the plugs there was some black shite (oil/dirt) on the cooler piping inner walls. I just assumed it was a crud build up.

Thanks for your suggestions. :P

Edited by Whooby
  • 3 weeks later...

Update:

Tried a larger fuel pump, good for up to 500HP - No change, bit too much fuel for a stock engine.

Could it be a crank angle sensor perhaps? once the engine fires there is a Tick Tick Tick then stops. Not sure what it is yet.

Any help please :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...