Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a decent amount of power in my track drift car and it sees some hefty track workouts for an extended period of time sometimes, along with a lot of waiting around. Now i currently have a crappy monsta performance generic china core with cooler pipe set up to suit R32 etc.

Now it gets pretty warm overall after a few hard runs... and the sitting around in the line up without airflowing through it really makes it feel dull off the line rather then if im doing continuous laps.. So i was thinking about upgrading the core..

What should i look at getting which would do a better job of flowing and cooling?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198744-intercooler-upgrade-questions/
Share on other sites

well thats just it, i dont mind paying for a decent cooler... i only want to do it once... Since its a drift car accidents can happen. while i havent destroyed a cooler yet i have seen many busted ones in the last drift event. So i dont really want to outlay 1K+ on something i might bust.

So im looking middle ground really.. something better then the china core i have now

already have that kind of system in place (Water sprayers) and yeah it works well. but i cant be on the sprayers all the time.

But hey, if people think i should stick with the core i have now... then i'll do it lol. im just after idea's

my mates dr30 saw lower intake air temps with a china core then it does now with a gtr intercooler, not much of a comparison but just stating a fact.. dont write them off just because they dont have a cool logo on the core :banana:... my 2cents

what about using thermo fans behind the core to suck air thru combined with a water spray kit

you could use this at the start line before you fang off and it would do a pretty big temp drop

the air suck from the thermo's and water spray should make it cold as long as the fans are ducted correctly

good idea or not - not sure ?

why not go a Trust M-Spec cooler..theyre pretty good and kits only cost round 700 bucks.

$599 from autobarn atm, if you are willing to wait (ive quit so i can plug them now :happy: ) i had a container coming of the trustLS type which is the new tube and fin not the shitty bar and plate type it will be around $599-$649 and lands early jan into thier warehouse. im pretty sure they had sold out of our first shipment before i left.

To be honest I wouldnt bother changing the cores.

Something interesting to think about which is why I dont think its worthwhile - would a better core actually fix your problem? I mean personally I cant see why even the absolute best intercooler cores wouldnt suffer heatsoak when stationary with high ambient temps and no airflow.

I can definitely see that there may be *some* marginal difference between something awesome (say a plasmaman or ARC cooler) as opposed to typical china crap, but at the same time it would be just that - marginal.

The only real difference would come from slightly better quality material being used giving a slightly better heatsink effect.

The problem is, that doesnt change the fact that either of them will become heatsoaked relatively quickly.

I think my point is youd be better off spending the money developing or buying a quality off the shelf CO2 cooler spray kit (or similar).

Or perhaps looking into improving your current water spray system? Bigger tank? Nozzle that mists the water better? Stronger pump? Etc etc

Thats my take on it anyway ;)

some times the queing at idle at drift practice days in the hot sun can seem like a very turbo unfriendly experience. Would shutting engine down inbetween longish waits be better?

i do this anyway, but makes no diff as theres still stacks of heat under the bonnet there

Hey Simon, have you considered a return flow style setup where the piping runs back under the intercooler and up through the one side?

Its been said the temps a relatively lower due to the fact that the intake pipe (cooler to intake manifold) is always exposed to air directly flowing over it.

Something like the older blitz kit.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Su...te-t190267.html

Have a look at the link above, post #12. Thats the style of kit I'm referring to.

Edited by abu
if you read, you'd see that i already have one set up.

With a couple of fans as well?

Without knowing the intake temps, pressure drop etc. You cant really say a cooler isnt doing its job well enough.

So get the numbers then you can see what its doing

i dunno if its a stupid question or not :) , but would it benificial to add a couple of vents in your bonnet in an attempt to keep under bonnet temps down?, and have you thought about whacking on a forward facing plenum?

Edited by toffy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...