Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to upgrade my cams and cam gears on my R33 GTS-t.

I've already had installed a bigger turbo(GTRS), injectors, fuel pump and so on and am making a comfortable 255atw currently.

Tomei 256 or 260's have been recommended as well as Tomei adj. cam gears.

Are the perfromance gains worth pushing my engine towards 270kw+ which is getting closer to popping point?

Or will the camshafts take a bit of stress off the internals anyway?

Cheers dudes! :happy:

im looking into it for my needs aswell

http://www.nengun.com/hks/camshafts-nissan

im lookin to go 264 with 9.0mm lift.

but looks like thats only on the exhaust size :S

if your looking to go bigger than 256, 8.8mm lift u are looking at solid lifters=$400

further valve springs are beneficial.

all up= 1500-2000

once u do that u can go past 270kw.

u wont need gears because they are preset, from what i have read

im looking into it for my needs aswell

http://www.nengun.com/hks/camshafts-nissan

im lookin to go 264 with 9.0mm lift.

but looks like thats only on the exhaust size :S

if your looking to go bigger than 256, 8.8mm lift u are looking at solid lifters=$400

further valve springs are beneficial.

all up= 1500-2000

once u do that u can go past 270kw.

u wont need gears because they are preset, from what i have read

Any idea what the difference in drivability will be between 264 and 260?

And that was a very handy little website (nengun) that you left an attachment for.

They've got some seriously cheap arse parts!!!

considering your really near the limit of the stock motor, is the extra few kw worth it?

Although i dont see how you cant make the extra power with a couple psi more!

Tis a good question to ask yourself :happy:

FYI i ran over 300rwkw with the factory cams/head etc etc.

Response i had was as good as anyone else here with similar engine specs and the cams ;)

If you could spend cam $$ elsewhere, then i'd be looking at that.

And that was a very handy little website (nengun) that you left an attachment for.

They've got some seriously cheap arse parts!!!

yea no worries man. this bloke has 260's on i think.

and this is how it sounds.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha...urrent=Idle.flv

ahoy hoy rotor freaks

but yea. if your going cams, springs, solid lifters etc.

go forgies man, or else all u will get is a nice sounding exhaust. no REAL success

Edited by r33cruiser
considering your really near the limit of the stock motor, is the extra few kw worth it?

Although i dont see how you cant make the extra power with a couple psi more!

Tis a good question to ask yourself :)

FYI i ran over 300rwkw with the factory cams/head etc etc.

Response i had was as good as anyone else here with similar engine specs and the cams :)

If you could spend cam $$ elsewhere, then i'd be looking at that.

I'm running 1.1 bar at the moment so don't think i'll be bumping it up anymore!

Do camsafts take some stress off engine internals???

Or was i listening to someone talking shit? ;)

isnt that more of an issue about compression. i only say this because i read that the team peer boss' 180 [shit forgot name]

only runs about 15 pound max.. but has bumped up the compression to help the powah.

but 254 8.5mm lift shud be sweet. u wont need springs or lifters and shit either. its not too aggressive.

Do camsafts take some stress off engine internals

no idea btw.

may have to try google

Edited by r33cruiser
yea no worries man. this bloke has 260's on i think.

and this is how it sounds.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha...urrent=Idle.flv

ahoy hoy rotor freaks

but yea. if your going cams, springs, solid lifters etc.

go forgies man, or else all u will get is a nice sounding exhaust. no REAL success

That's sounds off it's head man!

I have 256 poncams in mine,made 250rwkw with highflow turbo.Reading the RB25 dyno tread many people are making the same power without them,so its up to you.

Hopefully they will carry me over the 300rwkw mark with the new turbo though ;)

I have 256 poncams in mine,made 250rwkw with highflow turbo.Reading the RB25 dyno tread many people are making the same power without them,so its up to you.

Hopefully they will carry me over the 300rwkw mark with the new turbo though ;)

Forget the power figures, how was the difference under the foot?

Tis true you can spend the coin elsewhere ash, but any ideas as to whether the cams will help engine stress?

my guess is if you stay at 250rwkw with the cams installed on lower boost then you will stress it less but if you push it to 270 on the same 1.1 bar then there'll just be even more stress...

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

I've got 256's 8.5mm lift and they sound stock. I'm not sure if the 5mm extra will make it sound that lumpy - if you're going to the trouble of valve springs and lifters I don't think it's be worth the money spent. 1500 - 2 grand for a small amount of extra power... Forged pistons I can't see the advantage as the gtrs will run out of puff before endangering the rb25 if you don't go silly.

Cheers

Forget the power figures, how was the difference under the foot?

Hard to tell because i had alot of other mods done the same time as the cams.Power went from 190 to 250rwkw so all i felt was heaps of power.

Off boost id say there might be a little increase in torque.

Do cams take stress off the internals?

In theory yes as your making the package more efficient.

Ye, it would... but that extra 1-2psi really isnt overloaded 'stress' as such.

Fair enough if you were talking 5-6psi

Would cams stress the head bits?

Especially in a 10yr old head... thats a good question to look at as well (i dont know the answer to it)

I looked into it and decided a new plennum and FMIC setup would be more useful for response.

your can go to 1.2/1.3 bar with stock internals and a high flow ... I have been running 1.3 bar now for over 1 year with little detonation and great performance.

I got some good results with just a set of cam gears on top of all the normal mods. I have a new plennum and short IC piping just not installed. Cheaper and looks cooler ;)

What is this plenum that is less than 700 schmucks you speak of? Is it an ebay copy job or the real deal? Does it let you keep your fuel rail and side feed injectors?

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

ebay manifolds are fine man. checkout this.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/to...um-t181826.html

all the water galleries lined up...everyting was fine.

ebay is pretty decent... as long as there is no moving parts

Tis true you can spend the coin elsewhere ash, but any ideas as to whether the cams will help engine stress?

my guess is if you stay at 250rwkw with the cams installed on lower boost then you will stress it less but if you push it to 270 on the same 1.1 bar then there'll just be even more stress...

Yeah fair call mate.

So far the cons are far outweighing the pros!

Is is a fair bit of coin to spend but i'd love to get some more outta my current setup!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...