Jump to content
SAU Community

Aircon Regassers In Melbourne That Use Hychill Hr12 Gas

funkymonkey

By funkymonkey,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

EliseViv
EliseViv

Not sure of the etiquette here....BUT IT F&^KING works :-) Cold cold air, and 33C and 50% humidity currently in Townsville and I am an ICY cool 40 something balding fat man in my 30 year old impo

RB335
RB335

To know if there is enough oil in the system, after running the a/c for a a while, you need to degas the system, remove the compressor and drain its oil, if you manage to drain about 20-50ml you know

RB335
RB335

I would put 80ml in there, half of it in the compressor and half in the discharge hose. 300 Sounds a bit excessive, I would think it would be more toward 220 grams, but unless you have a extremely ac

Posted Images

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

not that much work to "convert" to HR12 unless the car has already been converted to R134a. if the car still has the old R12 gas in it, then it just needs to be tested etc. Degassed and regassed with HR12.

Ill have a quick guess at around $300 mark?

Someome correct me if im wrong please

Link to comment
Share on other sites
toygtr Community Regular

toygtr

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Haven't seen this before.

I've had my R32 GTR for 5 years now and have never had air con.

It was never gassed since it came over.

Where around croydon or ringwood does this regassing with hychill?

I also have got to get the pulley bearings looked at as they are very noisy.

Any suggestions on where to go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted
Hey,

Haven't seen this before.

I've had my R32 GTR for 5 years now and have never had air con.

It was never gassed since it came over.

Where around croydon or ringwood does this regassing with hychill?

I also have got to get the pulley bearings looked at as they are very noisy.

Any suggestions on where to go?

Hey.

The gas were talking bout is known as either Hychill or HR12.

A lot of A/C places will try to talk you out of it cos they dont know much about it themselves or have had too much R134a crap thrown at them to know any better. HR12 is essentially a natural refrigerant replacement for the old R12 systems that we have in R32's.

The HR12 works a lot better then the R134a stuff. Enough for you to cool a can in front of your air vent! it also wont corrode your A/C system like R134a does.

Sorry i dunno any places around your area that knows their stuff. I think my brother mentioned that his mechanic has it. ill find out soon.

Good luck finding a place.

I didnt really get a chance to talk to ya at the midnight cruise apart from trying to figure out where we were!. will hafta talk properly next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
toygtr Community Regular

toygtr

Posted
Posted
Hey.

The gas were talking bout is known as either Hychill or HR12.

A lot of A/C places will try to talk you out of it cos they dont know much about it themselves or have had too much R134a crap thrown at them to know any better. HR12 is essentially a natural refrigerant replacement for the old R12 systems that we have in R32's.

The HR12 works a lot better then the R134a stuff. Enough for you to cool a can in front of your air vent! it also wont corrode your A/C system like R134a does.

Sorry i dunno any places around your area that knows their stuff. I think my brother mentioned that his mechanic has it. ill find out soon.

Good luck finding a place.

I didnt really get a chance to talk to ya at the midnight cruise apart from trying to figure out where we were!. will hafta talk properly next time.

Yeah cool, will have to chat next cruise.

If you could find out where a good place is that can do my air con let me know.

I dont mind a drive, if it gets done properly.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
hahah, tow car... you make it sound like something normal! should get the plates, A380 or something - if it's the massive beast i'm thinking of...

did you go with Hychill refill??

the two most reputable people is spoke to talked me out of it..... gave me the option but i ended up going R134 :happy:

Stupid A380 needed new hoses, TX valve and receiver drier been open for too long.... i wanted the a/c to be perfect so took to anything that could be suspect... lucky the conversion used xf falcon gear so its only the hoses (20ft of hose :D ) that is dear.

Attached a pic of what it should look like once finished. 10 stud FTW

post-34927-1257941082_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
Link to comment
Share on other sites
AnDyStYLe Community Regular

AnDyStYLe

Posted
Posted (edited)

As stated in an earlier post (although in 2008 lol), JNK Auto does HyChill...

I just called them up now and spoke to Tim. What a champ, he spent like 20mins chatting to me about it explaining it all. Good thing was he was honest and said he is still acquiring his licence to do ac gassing and he doesn't personally do it, his boss does (John). Shows to me he's pretty clued up even though he doesn't personally do it.

Anyway, I'm book in for next week. Their contact number is 9873 2622, located in Mitcham.

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Quoted $132 GST inclusive for the full works (i.e. full flush, lube and dye, and recharge etc.).

Edited by AnDyStYLe
Link to comment
Share on other sites
toygtr Community Regular

toygtr

Posted
Posted
As stated in an earlier post (although in 2008 lol), JNK Auto does HyChill...

I just called them up now and spoke to Tim. What a champ, he spent like 20mins chatting to me about it explaining it all. Good thing was he was honest and said he is still acquiring his licence to do ac gassing and he doesn't personally do it, his boss does (John). Shows to me he's pretty clued up even though he doesn't personally do it.

Anyway, I'm book in for next week. Their contact number is 9873 2622, located in Mitcham.

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Quoted $132 GST inclusive for the full works (i.e. full flush, lube and dye, and recharge etc.).

Excellent mate.

Will give them a call for sure. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AnDyStYLe Community Regular

AnDyStYLe

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok guys, doing the whole works including fault testing, full flush, change of receiver dryer, and gass fill...

John mentioned that they is not point doing the full works if you don't change the receiver dryer as it acts as a filter. All up if all goes well it'll actually be about the $220 mark!!!

The lubricate they'll be using is Wurth Ester Oil with U/V Dye (http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.asp?pdf=A04_0601.pdf). Just done some research and found positive reviews. Better than PAG oil.

Will keep you all posted...

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Ok, now found that POE = POE Polyolester (type of oil for A/C) according to acronyms.thefreedictionary.com, so if I'm not wrong that means the Wurth Ester Oil with U/V Dye is POE which is what level323 recommends. Hope that's the case!

Edit #2: Found the MSDS for the Wurth Ester Oil with U/V Dye - http://www.wurth.com.au/msds/1892_764_334.htm

Edited by AnDyStYLe
Link to comment
Share on other sites
AnDyStYLe Community Regular

AnDyStYLe

Posted
Posted

Ok boys, update...

Ran into issues with the a/c where we found out that the a/c compressor sh!t itself... My options where either to repair, replace brand new or second hand. 1. Repair was going to be like $500, 2. Brand new $1k :P , 3. Sourced my own second hand unit for $100 :(

So anyway, I picked up the compressor on Friday morning which we only found out this morning when the original one was removed to be replaced, it was the wrong one. Needed to go back to the wreckers to exchange for the correct one...

Anyway, to cut the long story short... John/Tim from JNK Auto sorted it all out today and has done an excellent job. I am bloody wrapped!!!

All up I spent $260 to JNK and $100 on the second hand compressor. I gotta say JNK looked after me pretty well and would recommend them for sure!

Unfortunately John wasn't too keen on a "group buy" as in his past experiences, many of the people in the "group buy" ruin it for the others by not turning up. John would prefer a individual case by case like mine.

Cheers,

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      ER34 AT ECU and HKS SLD pins

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Daleo
      Exemplary Сasual Dating - Real Women

      By Daleo · Posted

      Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...