Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was thinking of buying the Recaro style seats from Just Jap, for my Skyline r33 ser.2. But I'm hesitant! Dey advertise dat the railings are universal, but yet dey say it will not bolt on to any car!

Dis is their advice:

To successfully fit these seats into your car, i will need to make a bracket to adapt these rails to your floor. Otherwise you can adapt your standard seat rails to this seat.

Now has anybody put these their skyline r33? what do i need to do? make a bracket? or adapt standard seat rails to the seat...but how? Worth getting?

HELP PLEASE! :D

Edited by HaZ3inSKY

Yeah you need to make custom brackets that bolt from the universal rail to the bolting locations aswell as making a bracket for seatbelt buckle.

They are nowhere near as good as 'real' ones and don't hug you as much if at all.

Get genuine recaro/bride or GTR seats, can't go wrong with them and less headache as they will bolt directly in.

I've also read, it is better to buy the bride rail and just drill 2 holes to fit the recaro seats! Because the bride rails bolt on to the skyline rite? Is this tru? If so i'll go buy these INSTANTLY!

I use to have the Recaro copies in my car, surprisely they're actually more comfortable than my bride ergo.

You could buy bride rails and redrill to fit... easier and quicker

Cheers fro the help guys!

Access Autoworks r selling Bride rails on ebay!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Genuine-Bride-Seat-...9QQcmdZViewItem

I asked them if these come as a pair... they haven't replied! Does any body noe if dey r? Or can I get these rails some other place?

I'm running a bride rail with a Spaco Pro 2000, had to modify the rail (drilling holes) to fit it =) still wasn't to much of a hassel.

I'd go a real seat over a "copy" anyday i've sat in them and there just not the same.

D does not replace the letter "th" when positioned next to eachother :blink:

I've been thinking about them too. I only live 2 mins away from Just Jap and have seen them and they feel reasonable quality. I've been thinking about it myself instead of a retrim.

I finally bought these recaro style seats from just jap!! their comfy as!! Now i have to put them in the car. When I get the bride rails, where exactly do I drill the two holes?

  • 1 month later...

i had a set of the justjap recaro copies and didnt like them. Cant compare to genuine ones as they dont provide as much support from the sides. But for the price you cant complain. If you want good seats for track get genuine ones but these are fine for the street.

As for mounting... dont mount on a standard rail as they will sit too high. The universal rails they give you are pretty much useless without fabrication and welding.

Getting a bride low mount rail and modifying that would be the best thing.

  • 1 month later...

I went into JustJap today to check these seats out and was fairly happy with them. i'm replacing the seats in my 32 GTR because i find them uncomfortable and don't support my back properly, and the Bride copies on display seemed a pretty good fit. Has anyone found these seats to degrade quickly? the material seems ok but I wonder if it'll hold up over time. Also, as far as rails are concerned, how much am I looking at spending on a set, and who do you guys recommend?

I went into JustJap today to check these seats out and was fairly happy with them. i'm replacing the seats in my 32 GTR because i find them uncomfortable and don't support my back properly, and the Bride copies on display seemed a pretty good fit. Has anyone found these seats to degrade quickly? the material seems ok but I wonder if it'll hold up over time. Also, as far as rails are concerned, how much am I looking at spending on a set, and who do you guys recommend?

The rails go for ~150 per side second hand. I heard auto technica make bolt on rails now and they are also ~150 brand new.

As for the seats, IMHO I wouldnt stick some copy seats in a GTR, i would rather go for a set of 33 or 34 GTR seats. I think just jap had a nice set of 33 GTR seats for $900, which isnt far off what your going to need to spend ie $400 for the seats and $300 for the rails. Also in terms of material quality even my friends genuine Bride's in really good condition have been UV affected, they have faded on the top section closest to the window. Also found his Bride Ergo's to be too firm(good for the track) but for everyday use i would much prefer my 33 GTR seats

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...