Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I'll start off with Happy New Year! Everyone still recovering???

OK - so back to business... i've had my R33 S1 (but looks like an S2 so i guess its a 1.5 as some people here call it), for 1 year next month and have just started with the mods. So far i have a HKS spoung air filter with no box, Blitz BOV, 3'' turbo back exhaust system with high flow cat & FMIC. After this work was finished it got put on the Dyno and made 225rwkw - i dont have the sheet, he just called me when he did it and i fell off my chair at work when i heard it - does this sound right or should i get it done again or should i just take the results and run with it?

Anyways, so the next things i want done are: Electronic Boost Controller, Cool direct air intake for the air filter, PFC or some sort of aftermarket ECU, Z32 AFM. Once all that is done i suppose i would then need to change the clutch, fuel pump, maybe injectors?

I have read a lot of threads about doing up R33's and they are all from 2003/2004, so what i am asking is if anyone from experience thinks there is a certain order of which i should be doing the rest of my mods or if i have missed something that i need once i add a new part...?

I'm hoping to acheive over 300rwkw. Then i'll come show off with you guys at Dyno days other events... i'm yet to make my debut... lol :(

Thanks everyone!!!!

Sammy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199740-what-order-should-i-do-this-in/
Share on other sites

sounds like a happy dyno. No way will a stock ecu make that much power. it is possible the ecu has been chipped in japan tho so could be worth while checking that out also.

Basically the minute you raise the boost with stock ecu you hit Rich and Retard which prevents you from making any real power at all.

to make 300 rwkw (your going to need stronger internals if you want it to last at this and over) you'll need

PFC

Bigger injectors

Bigger Fuel pump

Bigger turbo - 3076R with .83 housing comes to mind

z32 afm

and a good tune.

of course you'll need other support systems like clutch, fmic and turbo back exhaust...

There's not a chance you're on 225rwkw with those mods. Get it tuned somewhere where they know what there doing.

either they have no idea how to use a dyno or they are just trying to bullshit you.

i dont see why they would be trying to bullshit me... lol - who would do that?

i'll get it put on the dyno again to make sure - but that isnt why i wrote this thread, this is more to be focussed on the mods rather than the dyno results...

any other opinions on the mods guys? I jus want to make sure i do things in the right order because i dont want to add something then fark something else up along the way...

as the others have said 225rwkw is too high

190 to 200rwkw is about spot on

check what gear it was done in on the dyno sheet

might have been 3rd gear

or different diff gears in the back prehaps?

what rpm do you 100km/h at in 5th gear?

Guys!!!! lol - your all missing the point! hahaha - i will clarify the dyno results when i re-dyno next month...

i want to know what next - i need help to know which mods go after what i already have (FMIC, turbo back exhaust, air filter (no box), BOV)... in my 1st post i have listed some things that i think should go next but i dont know which order is the smartest way to go about it... please help with this???

do a search you will find everything you need

i did a search as i mention in my first post and i found a lot of good information but old information, i was just asking what people thought in their own opinion from experience what they found to be the smartest way to mod - what things to do 1st... i have already done the first stage of mods, its just the next step where one mod starts affecting other parts more heavily so i want to go about it the right way...

so if anyone is willing to help me with this, please do! lol

First, make sure it STOPS. Then make sure it HANDLES. Then make it go fast.

*well it has brakes... 60% / 50% - do you mean get like vented disks or whateva?

*handling is aweome!! no problems there... came with aftermarket apexi suspension

*now im trying to work on the power

:(

well thats just the thing, you want 300 rwkw, so it doesnt matter which mod you do first as you will need to do ALL of the ones i listed in order to make that power.

if you dont want 300 rwkw and want to stick with the stock turbo, then i'd just get a PFC and an EBC and a damn good tune., will make good power and last ages, and both mods you can keep for future upgrade.

hope this helps, but you need to be clearer about what you want

well thats just the thing, you want 300 rwkw, so it doesnt matter which mod you do first as you will need to do ALL of the ones i listed in order to make that power.

if you dont want 300 rwkw and want to stick with the stock turbo, then i'd just get a PFC and an EBC and a damn good tune., will make good power and last ages, and both mods you can keep for future upgrade.

hope this helps, but you need to be clearer about what you want

OK well i want to keep the turbo stock for now... i want that to be like one of the last things to change as it will be one of the most expensive...

So if i get in order... EBC - Cool direct air intake - Z32 AFM - Fuel Pump & Injectors together. Then get the PFC last and have it all tuned? Reason why i said PFC last is so i dnt have to keep getting everything tuned after every mod... then ill change the clutch...

Then later somewhere down the track ill change the turbo... how does this plan sound?

sounds reasonable thats for sure, yes start getting all the parts now, so the AFM, injectors, fuel pump, ebc, and the PFC, get them all and then you can book it in with your tuner of choice to get all the parts installed and then tuned up. once you have all that you just add a turbo to make decent power.

as for cold air intake, you can do that any time, you wont need a retune for it.

OK sweet - i thought that for the cool air intake you would need it tuned because more air would be running through the POD filter...

Thanks for your help mate - i will start collecting the parts and get it all installed and tuned! Appreciate your opinion for this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...