Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 gtst - RB20 if it makes a difference,

driving along noticed a funny smell like oil or something then all of a sudden stopped at lights i hear it start pissing out, lucky i was near home so just made it back before the engine temp was cooked lol. went to top it up today and it drank about 4 - 5 litres and still wanted more, turned it on to see where its coming from and i cant see the point of origin but its dripping down and coming off the bottom of the gearbox, right under the clutch. dunno what around there would leak cos theyre are no pipes are there ?? anyway i was gunna take it in for its due service in the next few days anyway but now i dunno if its safe to drive it there or if i should get it towed ?

will try get some pics up ASAP, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199882-coolant-leak-where-from/
Share on other sites

I think its what they called a Wels Plug,

It sit in the back of the block, designed to expand when too much heat or something like that. Best to tow it to a mechanic and have it replace.

WELSH plug.

They are there to fill up the hole left for expansion when the block (and sometimes head) is cast. Pretty rare for these to go if you are looking after the cooling system. I would go with the general consensus and chase heater hoses first.

is it holding coolant ? if it just all goes down you have kinda a big problem, if it slow leak pressure test it ( iff posible ) will be easy to find out where its leaking from ,

wash whole leaking areas down dry take small drive see if it leaks , take from there

and all the checks other's have mentioned

hope ya find problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...