Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys my 25'd 32 is up and running now

I have a few things to tidy up with the wiring

1. The Aircon Simon did the wiring for me and his aircon works, well it just works so Im guessing not as well as it use to

with mine nothing happens it seems like the aircon fans not switching on and theres no drop in

idle so I dont think the compressors turning on either.

Ive heard (not in detail) that 33's run a extra temp sensor, can someone confirm in detail how this is done and if it works.

Im kinda bummed because I went to the trouble of reusing the rb20 air con compressor and keeping all the lines connected so I wouldnt have to get it regassed

that and its 40 degress outside.

2. The car doesnt seem to like to cold start at all, I have to pump the throttle to get it to fire up and then to get it to "clear" its throat

my car currently has a rb20 o2 sensor fitted and a s14 purple plug unit thing (near the inlet plenum) sorry not sure what it is but my 25 one was stuffed

Im not sure if these would affect cold start or if there's some wiring that needs to be done

sorry to post it in this section but I think this is the best place to get a responce

Thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200189-r32-rb25-conversion/
Share on other sites

An O2 sensor is an O2 sensor. They all work the same way (basically). It shouldn't matter if it's for a RB20 or a RB25.

As for your starting problems, check the cold start air valve, under the inlet plenum.

The A/C problem was covered about 2 weeks ago. Have a search.

you are :( there's no difference. mine ran with an rb20 one up until recently when i decided it was getting old and swapped it for a generic one

Which fan are you talking about? the secondary one on the front or the internal one? If its the internal one you have issues as that should work regardless of whether the engine loom is installed or not.

re the ac wiring. if the idle isn't stepping up then the ecu doesn't know the ac is being switched on. It will step up regardless of whether the second solenoid on the IACV is connected or not. If the compressor isn't switching on it's because the ecu isn't telling it to switch on (1) because it doesn't know it's supposed to, and maybe (2) because it hasn't been connected into the body loom up near the air box. The secondary fan is also tied up to this so will work once it gets the signal.

re the start up issues. check your earths, check the auxiliary air valve has power (though that won't make a heap of difference to start up, just cold return to idle stalling could be a problem) check that the water temp sensor is connected and working properly (im guessing thats the s14 one that you plugged in. bin it and get the right one)

^ internal one

cant get the fan no aircon to come on either

so I dont need to add another temp sensor somewhere

just had a quick search to couldn't find anything with the info I wanted

this is the part Im talking about

(note this is my part refitted to the s14 engine I borrowed the s14 part from

as you can see the plugs stuffed)

post-15018-1199486639_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...