Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly i have : R32GTR with built motor, R34N1's running up to 21psi.

Iam getting a fair bit of oil in my intake and intercooler pipes and i want to fix this asap. The problem is that I have VERY limited space in my R32 engine bay to fit a catch can.

As I see it I have 3 options:

1 - Relocate the battery to the boot and fit a decent size catch can in its place. This means a bit of stuffing around with wiring and the loss of some boot space. Would have to buy battery box. Is it legal ??

2 - Buy a small $300 odyssey battery which would leave room for a catch can in front of it.

3 - buy one of those catch cans thats sits accross cam covers at the back. See pic below. Would these do the job and do it well? It would be the cheapest and easiest option.

post-224-1199779044_thumb.jpg

How big does it need to be? Most seem to be about 800ml to 1 litre. Is that big enough for an RB26 that does the occasional hill climb and drag event?

What catch can setup does everyone have in their GTR?

Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200676-rb26-oil-catch-can/
Share on other sites

yeh its coming slowly just trying to get my mate motivated to come round is the trouble lol...cruise for sure that be great indeed...i have not been in a gtr for over 18months now and i need a fix lol so the sooner the better...

regarding the catch placement i think ill just put mine infront of battery as it fits nice indeed...your welcome to come round and have a look anytime mate...

Cusco sell a 3L catch can that fits behind the battary. I've got one, it's great.

here's a pic stolen from Beer Baron's RB26 for sale thread of what the can looks like

picture016dj0.jpg

Edited by sav man

sav man .... The battery I have now is too big but if I bought a smaller battery that is exactly what Iam looking for.

How have you got yours set up ? What inlet/outlets does it come with ?

Where from and how much ?? I can only find the smaller ones on the net.

Thanks

Tim.

sav man .... The battery I have now is too big but if I bought a smaller battery that is exactly what Iam looking for.

How have you got yours set up ? What inlet/outlets does it come with ?

Where from and how much ?? I can only find the smaller ones on the net.

Thanks

Tim.

My is setup identicle to the pic. It comes with that clear hose, and a bung to block the breather line going into the turbo inlet. You will need to buy a filter (like $5) to put on the catch can outlet though (the bit on the drivers side of the battary).

www.greenline.jp have them for $179 + postage, Cusco 3000ml car spesific kit. Part # is "231 011 A"

Edited by sav man

i think the battery to boot is a good option.

but as you said alot of work to get it there.

i've been in this process for some time, also building an airbox to suit the trust cross over/hard pipe kit. and a catch can like the arc number with radiator overflow and washer bottle in one..

nissan.jpg

similar to the 33/34 gtr model but to suit 32gtr

Edited by Angus Smart

if you plan on doing cams events like hill climbs etc check the cams regs regarding catch cans. They need to be specific size etc by engine capacity and whether there externally vented or return to the sump.

Of the top of my head i cant remember the specs.

from memory cams regs state it has to be bigger than the capacity of the engine. hence the GTR racing one being 3litre. the one I have is fitted there with the standard sized battery in place. if yours wont fit there then for some reason you have swapped to a bigger than standard battery (bad idea). it's 3l so in a standard size RB26 if things go wrong it can hold pretty much a whole sump full of oil.

Yes I realize now that I have a bigger battery then standard and I will change it to fit a catch can.

I emailed Greenline about the 3L Cusco one and they said they have none in stock but could get one made.

That ARC one for an R32 posted buy Angus Smart looks ok. Thats the style Iam after. Anyone got any info on it or a link i can go to? Cant find it for sale anywhere or any info on it.

Tim.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...