Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why bother putting oats? Why not just buy a protein with carbs that's half concentrate and half isolate as a meal replacement? I honestly don't know what people's obsession with oats in shakes is. Also waxy maize is gay, you can't mix it with your shake because it slows down how fast the protein gets into your body, glucose does the same thing anyway even better and at 4x less to buy. Research into it, the internet is chockablock full of information. Take what everyone says with a grain of salt and research yourself.

My uncle has been a bodybuilder for 20 years and my old man used to compete, doesn't mean i take everything they say for gospel... you gotta find out stuff for yourself especially when it comes to supplements. All you NEED is a whey isolate and glucose powder for a PWO. iIf you need creatine make sure it's a monohydrate as everything else is a gimmick, don't trust online reviews of supplements as most of the time it's faked or idiots who think it's doing something when it hasn't just because they have taken it.

Generally I give most things a try to see if it works for me. I will give the oats a go for a while,It may help for some-may do jack for others. One way to find out for myself I guess. I have to admit I have never tried the Glucose yet, However I am hearing quite good response regarding it so I will give it a go...Just have to shop around and see whats the best deal

Geez, there seems to be quite a bit of inaccurate information in this thread. Anyone trying to "bulk" up taking all these extra substances really are wasting time, protein is basically all you need, the rest are just a waste of money. Oh and protein has a saturation rate which is undetermined, so 30-40,100,200 per sitting, no real evidence behind it, but on a strict measure of calorie consumption, 300g of protein a day is exceptional within the afternoon/night. Majority of carbs should be consumed in the morning and early afternoon, and then your protein based meals. Ideally you want to deplete your body of glycogen thus eliminating any chance of carbs morphing into fat. This is obviously achieved through heavy weight training, and then you go for your typical 20 minute interval cardio session right after.

And GTR-32U, there is no real proof of body adaptation to increased workload, if anything it can detract from it if you understand how BMR works. Unfortunately the exercise/training industry has such an overflow of information (being a multi-billion dollar industry) it has gotten to the point where every theory has a contradictory theory to detract it.

But what I know and what I do seems to be working very well so I’ll stick it :-)

Yep good post...And you are correct , There is so much Bullsh^t information floating around Gyms and the net these days..I often go onto Bodybuilding websites however 99% of the time the guys in the forums are some scrawny 16 yr old kid talking out of his Ass, something he may have heard from somebody who heard from somebody else instantly becomes carved in stone...This is why I am never afraid to try out new diet routines etc..

last year in yr12 i was gymming pretty hard 4days a week, pretty much good diet pasta everyday for lunch at school. protein shake.

was only on protein and purple wrath if anyone knows that, tasted like shit near the bottom but gave me that extra energy to go bit harder. each to there own. anyway got near to exams so i stopped. said i would continue after exams...never happened....didnt step back into a gym for about 10months and i put on a stack of weight over that time. i just recently joined again and just taking protein to help recovery.

i got mates who dont take anything who put on muscle then i got another mate who is a skinny little twig and has tried many supplements, +eats twice as much as me throughout the day and cant put on any muscle, everythign goes straight through him.

here are two pics from about a month after i stopped gym last year and when i use to have a shaved head lol

post-38129-1251121786_thumb.jpg

post-38129-1251121797_thumb.jpg

was at about 100-110kg there..always been quite heavy though. at the time still needed work on stomach though but i find it bit hard as i had a lump removed from the skin near bottom of my spine so i find it hard to work stomach as i cant put to much pressure back there with situps or anything.

atm now lol i dont wanna even know me weight, lost mass put on weight = pain in the ass to get back in shape =]

Yeah I understand bro, the key to the stomach is the diet...and it annoys me becuase I could do as many situps/ab workouts as I want but the skin covering the musclees will always hide it haha. I am slowly getting there though.

Currently fasting for the month though so I'm out for 4 weeks haha, gonna go hard once i get back into it.

the key to the stomach is the diet...and it annoys me becuase I could do as many situps/ab workouts as I want but the skin covering the musclees will always hide it haha. I am slowly getting there though.

lol yeah after 8 months back into the gym I've only just come to the realisation that ab workout alone isn't going to get me the results I want as much as I've tried, I'm forming a nice toned v shape but my excess is still in the way

diet it is :D

Haha yepp you will notice the shape will form but the actual definition won't be there. If you got the tone there, I could make a bet that if you go on a real STRICT diet, you could get good looking abs in about a months time :D

you actually dont need to do situps to have abs.. low fat % will show abs.. Whats the good of abs if they arnt strong? id rather have no abs but a flat stomach with insane strength :D situps with a 20kg plate on ur chest is where its at...

you actually dont need to do situps to have abs.. low fat % will show abs.. Whats the good of abs if they arnt strong? id rather have no abs but a flat stomach with insane strength :D situps with a 20kg plate on ur chest is where its at...

But doing ab work will make them grow. Why bother working out your chest when you can just lose a shitload of body fat and see tiny pectorals?

main parts you notice is chest, shoulder, tris, biceps and legs.. Some people cant have rocking abs, some people cant have any ab definition at all.. What im saying is, if you dont have the CK model abs, dont stress, because not everyone has a rocking set.. Not even me. Im sporting a KEG atm :D

havent had any personal experience with it..have you used any of those supplements before???

ive heard tribulus is suppose to be good but not really an idea about it.

figured purple wratth and protein ws doiing me good...plus decent diet mainly pasta and rice dishes & chicken :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...