Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All I hear is whinging about techniques and width of equipment. At least you can move both your arms and do the friggen exercise. If I could do dips between two shopping trolleys with a couple of retards holding them in place I would.

angry_birds___red___super_high_quality__

yes and yes

an olympic bar is 7', 20kg, bearing collars and takes olympic plates (the big hole ones)

standard bar is the stuff you have.

they also make an olympic ladies bar which is 6' and 15kg. the collars are shorter and the gap between the collars is the same as the 7' ones.

just incase you want the lady version.

Sell your shit on ebay, add some more money to your funds and get a cage/bar and plates package like this..

http://www.cyber-market.com.au/cyberfit-power-rack-100kg-olympic-weight-flat-bench-p-591.html

More than you'll need for a while.. and you can always buy more plates as needed.

or if you want to retain your plates you could get something like this..

http://www.gymdirect.com.au/item/5-Package-Deal-_-BPR02-Power-Rack-with-high-low-pulley--+-FD3-flat-bench-+-100kg-barbell-dumbell-set-$865/109.htm

Just trying to follow your logic on buying an entire kit if there's an option to just buy a longer standard bar. Doesn't seem like there is any unless the goal is to ultimately move to Olympic gear.

So I have a new attitude towards this shoulder injury. I thought f**k it...I'm gonna come out the other side of this thing with a positive: huge f**k off legs. Time to make up for the years of neglecting legs in favour of upper body.

So until the physio gives me the all clear on upper body movements, I'm gonna smash the shit out of legs 3-4 times a week. This will involve:

Squats

Squats

Leg press

Hamstring curls

Calf raises

Possibly more squats

Legs progress shot from me.

8637151882_1f28bf8731_z.jpg

Congratulations dude, you're my motivation to put some serious size on my legs over the next 8 weeks or so.

Exactly!!!

I can't do chest so have trained legs twice this week. Tonight was shoulders and traps but before that did 10mins on the bike as warm up and then 5 sets of squats.

Want my legs to get heaps bigger and stronger in the next month.

Fark that session felt good. Hamstring curl smashed my hamstrings in a way that deadlifts can't. And it'll be good to balance out legs with some calf work for aesthetics :)

Satisfaction at the end almost makes up for no upper body work during the session. More energy for squats too, which I normally save for the end of the session.

Sounds good Birds. Hope it all goes well for you mate. An old PT mate of mine stuffed a tendon in his wrist (forget the exact injury but basically sheared off the bone I believe) but it was depressing the number of exercises that ruled out. He found ways to use wraps or particular machines to work around it as much as possible until it healed up completely

With legs being such a big muscle group too I think it should help burn the calories up

I've always had decent upper legs, they would be my best body part. Have never had to do too much to them to maintain volume and they respond well for me. Whereas back , shoulders etc I seem to need to work continually to maintain any size. I'm going to focus on the calves a lot more and hope for some sort of development there. apparently for some people it doesn't seem to matter what you do they just wont respond.

Advice/help from those in the know please.

I have a fairly noticeable size difference between legs due to an old knee injury and would like some guidance as to how to even them up. I have full range of movement but the injured knee isn't as stable as my good knee.

My lower body workout currently consist of the following once a week: Walking lunges, Squats (parallel), Deadlifts, Hamstring curls, calf raises, single leg dead lifts and jumping squats.

Try to do cardio twice a week, HIIT resistance circuit, HIIT on rowing machine/stationary cycle, if I have time XC mountain biking. Also do two upper body days a week, a three day split works best for me so I can keep workouts short after a long day at work. No training Sunday/Monday.

Some people tell me to do single leg exercises and do more reps for the weak leg, others say start with weak leg and only do the same amount of reps for both sides. Other people insist I should keep doing what I’m already doing and just concentrate on driving with the weaker leg more.

I train for general health and to blow off steam after a 13+ hr shifts.

I do need to have a reco at some point but time, money and rehab process put me off the idea while it mostly works ok.

If anyone can help me out that would be great as it's really starting to shit me.

EDIT: I just worked it out MORE SQUATS!

Edited by numleg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...