Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does that stuff strike you as being cheap crap?

Is there anything you can see obviously wrong with gear for light home use or are you generalising?

Can you show me what you consider decent so I've got a comparison?

Edited by ActionDan

The benches appear cheap to tell you the truth. They look like they wouldn't be very stable/solid, and the material of the upper (pads) wouldn't be very durable.

The cage looks alright, but the materials themselves look a little thin? I could be wrong though. Its hard to tell unless you see it in person..


Just generalising tbh. Going by the typical "if it looks too good to be true, that's because it is" principal.
There's nothing wrong with cheaper equipment for home use, but I doubt the warranties would be worth the paper they're written on, so it's better to spend a bit more for a setup that will last a lifetime.

I'm not saying the stuff I sell is the greatest, but at least it's tested and rated, and the warranties are usually quite good.

e.g.

http://www.gymquipfitness.com/product-details.php?action=view&proId=555

http://www.gymquipfitness.com/product-details.php?action=view&proId=149


The lat pulldowns, etc on power racks are usually quite gimmicky as they aren't strong enough to take a decent amount of weight.

 

Thanks TTT.

God_speed: Correct, they can be moved inside the rack and yes I've never done incline bench. I've never been madly into weights or overly strong, I just do it to keep some level of physique (I work an office job) and to assist with working on my car/around the house. I've never repped more than 100kg on the bench anyway (atm only a touch over 90kg) and it's only been recently that I've started making an effort to do some more compound work and get involved in some of the "proper" lifts like squats and DLs etc, hence the rack.

 

No worries Dan. I'm in a similar situation. Definitely recommend incorporating incline in your setup / routine. Decline as well if possible.

Agree on seeing the equipment before buying. Have bought a cheap bench setup way back and the welds holding the seat (split seat/backrest) to the frame snapped. POS. If you can I would shell out more to get a decent build, it will last longer, feel better to use (sturdier, fewer problems like cable sheathing crapping out, frames bending etc) and you should get some form of resale out of it as well

Wow, no doubt it's a good bench but for that money I could buy 7 average ones =\

I realise safety is also a factor.

http://www.gymquipfitness.com/product-details.php?action=view&proId=134

^top level domestic bench (adjustable)

They're way better to use than pin-locking benches too, all you do is lift the pad and it locks on one of the teeth along the support.

EDIT: Anyway, enough advertising in this thread.

Edited by TM7GTR

 

Why do you believe incline and decline bench should be done?

 

TTT I did flat bench for yonks with only occasional incline work. Had decent depth in the pecs but lacking a lot near the clavicle / pec major... I found doing a lot of volume on incline work over the past 2-3 years helped bring that out, a lot. With decline, I don't notice the effects as readily, but I find it is good for balancing out the incline work as well as finishing off the chest routine as I find them easier to do.

Haha! The only true stability test any bench needs

Or what about these two? look mid range?

http://www.fitonline.com.au/p/4304600/york-aspire-fid-dumbell-bench.html

http://www.fitonline.com.au/p/4281877/bodyworx-c324sb-fid-utility-bench.html

Odd that they top out at 200kg.

I'm 86kg now, repping 91ish kg, that's already 75% of the capacity and Im not a big lifter.

then again, realistically I won't go much if anything beyond 90kg in weight and maybe 100kg rep on the bench, not much room after that though and I suppose that's a ways off.

Definitely prefer the York one for what you want it for, you'd definitely find those leg extension pads getting in the way.

Dunno why they're only rated at 200 but the fact it says 'user weight' makes me think they have factored in the use of some weights on top of the user weight... what weight exactly, who knows? But 200 is stuff all. And Dan I wouldn't put it past yourself to bench more than 100 in the near future, if you're 86kg youre pretty much the same weight as me and I can bench that but don't consider it to be at all a strong bench figure.

I know I "could" bench more as I used to rep in the 110 range for sets of 10 but I have no desire to go back to that in terms of chest size. I'd be happy to get back to an even 100 for the psychological factor.

What do you think Tom, the York one look better?

I should see if I can even bench 100kg lol. Most I've ever even bothered unracking was 95kg, which I managed 3 (sketchy) reps from memory. Been sticking to dumbbells lately, predominantly incline press over flat (aesthetic basis). Pushed out 36kg x7,7,6,7 reps last night, which is a PB on incline for me. New PB for flat DB press too last week - 42kg x7 on my 4th set.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...