Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fair enough, it's still quite good numbers really. And 116 for ~7 reps is fantastic. That'd be around 130kg 1RM.

Id agree with jangles, its defs bigger then 130kg 1RM.

Im close (give me 3 weeks) to a 1rm bench of 130kg and i could maybe do like 3 reps at 115kg.

Either way its solid benching!

And actually have a somewhat concerning pain on the top of my patella....like the ligament is trying to tear itself away from the bone. Not doing any more squats today. This f**ks me off big time.

well to put it into perspective, I do 142.5 x8x3, when I did 1RM, because I had no idea what I could do, I did 180 which was easy, then 200, at which point I didn't want to push it any harder in case my knees gave out.

I've found that curling the toes to stop leaning forward and using the hips / glutes to come back up and concentrating on that has helped a lot with any knee soreness that I've had, that said I always err on the side of caution when something does not feel right.

Yo Troy man, was Googling up on my frequently cracking knees (when I get up from a seated or lying position)...saw this article, which talks about something similar to what you may be experiencing with squats.

http://blogs.menshealth.com/muscle-guy/is-it-bad-that-my-knees-crack-when-i-squat/2011/

Now some folks will notice a grinding noise in the knee joint when they squat. If its not painful, its categorized as benign creptius which, again. is nothing to be concerned about. Many people experience this throughout their lives and never have any problems.

If the condition is painful, then thats a different story entirely. The undersurface of your kneecap (patella) can rub unevenly on the front of your thigh bone (femur). This causes the cartilage on the undersurface of the kneecap, and on the front of the thigh bone, to soften and eventually wear off so that it hangs in strands of what looks like loose crab meat. This loose cartilage can irritate the surrounding soft-tissues of the knee joint, and result in pain in the front of the knee with squatting, stair climbing, or even just sitting with your knee bent for an extended period of time.

If this is the case, physical therapy, or in worst cases, surgery, will be required to resolve the condition to allow you to return to normal activities.

This causes the cartilage on the undersurface of the kneecap, and on the front of the thigh bone, to soften and eventually wear off so that it hangs in strands of what looks like loose crab meat.

I have before and after pictures of this from my surgery.

I can put them up here for peoples viewing pleasure in about a month if you want.

Now some folks will notice a grinding noise in the knee joint when they squat. If its not painful, its categorized as benign creptius which, again. is nothing to be concerned about. Many people experience this throughout their lives and never have any problems.

If it's any help my good knee does this a lot.

My physio said it shouldn't be a problem unless there is pain and suggested that I do itb releases on the foam roller twice a day for a few weeks and see if it goes away.

Edited by r31slpr

My pain is definitely not on the inside of my knee so to speak. It's on the outside edge where you'd expect your various quad ligaments to be attached to the patella. Can trigger the pain by firmly pressing/rubbing the area of the bone. It's exactly like I just banged my knee on the corner of a desk or something (or the head stem of a pushbike, as I've done countless times before)

Pain has zero - I repeat - ZERO to do with any muscles (though I won't discount they're somehow the cause). The pain is ON THE BONE. On the TOP EDGE of my patella (when standing upright). In case nobody here knows what your patella actually is (which I know isn't the case, but you're trying hard to prove otherwise lol), it's your KNEE CAP. Yes, the bone. My pain is ON THE BONE.

  • Like 1

The liquid chalk that I made up a while ago has worked extremely well.

One block of chalk and 385ml of isopropyl alcohol made up 2 x 200ml bottles, total cost was around $15, $5 for the chalk and $10 for the alcohol.

Same stuff sells for $20 to $30 for around 50ml on fleabay.

Crushed the chalk to dust by hand in a large zip lock bag, added the alco and mixed it by mashing it up in the bag.

To fill the bottles I cut the corner off one side of the bag and squeezed it into the bottle (got this by watching my missus ice a cake).

If your gym hates on chalk (and there is no alternative) then this could save you some bucks.

I actually put this on first up when I get to the gym, I put it on and grab the bar and it leaves a nice layer of chalk on the bar to start with, I only need to use dry chalk every so often then as it seems to stick better to my hands, probably the alco initially imbedding it into the pores of my hands.

Pain has zero - I repeat - ZERO to do with any muscles (though I won't discount they're somehow the cause). The pain is ON THE BONE. On the TOP EDGE of my patella (when standing upright). In case nobody here knows what your patella actually is (which I know isn't the case, but you're trying hard to prove otherwise lol), it's your KNEE CAP. Yes, the bone. My pain is ON THE BONE.

Nice use of caps lock. But i doubt highly THE BONE is causing pain. Unless you've hit it and bruised it.

tight quads MUSCLES AND LIGAMENTS pull on the patella BONE.

Pretty much any ache or pain in the body will be from muscles, tendons and ligaments.

Or unless I have (mild) patella tendonitis.

I'm sorry though, I just can't see how anything I said could point to muscle. I wouldn't be whinging if it was muscular, since then I'd at least know where the issue was.

Or unless I have (mild) patella tendonitis.I'm sorry though, I just can't see how anything I said could point to muscle. I wouldn't be whinging if it was muscular, since then I'd at least know where the issue was.

you do know that Itis means inflammation and tendon means the tendon, so patella tendonitis would be inflammation of the patella tendon.

Tendons attach the muscle to the bone....

Pain isn't always direct.

Yes I know "itis" more or less means the inflammation of. Regardless, the pain is where the tendon attaches to the bone, as confirmed by jamming my knuckle into the area of pain. Also everything I found regarding people experiencing pain in the same area or general information pages further suggest patella tendonitis.

I've had this same pain before from ramping up weight on leg press too quickly.

And yes I know the site/location of pain isn't always where the cause is - it could be from tight quads or something. The pain is on the edge of the bone, that I'm absolutely 100000000% certain of.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...