Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fair enough, it's still quite good numbers really. And 116 for ~7 reps is fantastic. That'd be around 130kg 1RM.

Id agree with jangles, its defs bigger then 130kg 1RM.

Im close (give me 3 weeks) to a 1rm bench of 130kg and i could maybe do like 3 reps at 115kg.

Either way its solid benching!

And actually have a somewhat concerning pain on the top of my patella....like the ligament is trying to tear itself away from the bone. Not doing any more squats today. This f**ks me off big time.

well to put it into perspective, I do 142.5 x8x3, when I did 1RM, because I had no idea what I could do, I did 180 which was easy, then 200, at which point I didn't want to push it any harder in case my knees gave out.

I've found that curling the toes to stop leaning forward and using the hips / glutes to come back up and concentrating on that has helped a lot with any knee soreness that I've had, that said I always err on the side of caution when something does not feel right.

Yo Troy man, was Googling up on my frequently cracking knees (when I get up from a seated or lying position)...saw this article, which talks about something similar to what you may be experiencing with squats.

http://blogs.menshealth.com/muscle-guy/is-it-bad-that-my-knees-crack-when-i-squat/2011/

Now some folks will notice a grinding noise in the knee joint when they squat. If its not painful, its categorized as benign creptius which, again. is nothing to be concerned about. Many people experience this throughout their lives and never have any problems.

If the condition is painful, then thats a different story entirely. The undersurface of your kneecap (patella) can rub unevenly on the front of your thigh bone (femur). This causes the cartilage on the undersurface of the kneecap, and on the front of the thigh bone, to soften and eventually wear off so that it hangs in strands of what looks like loose crab meat. This loose cartilage can irritate the surrounding soft-tissues of the knee joint, and result in pain in the front of the knee with squatting, stair climbing, or even just sitting with your knee bent for an extended period of time.

If this is the case, physical therapy, or in worst cases, surgery, will be required to resolve the condition to allow you to return to normal activities.

This causes the cartilage on the undersurface of the kneecap, and on the front of the thigh bone, to soften and eventually wear off so that it hangs in strands of what looks like loose crab meat.

I have before and after pictures of this from my surgery.

I can put them up here for peoples viewing pleasure in about a month if you want.

Now some folks will notice a grinding noise in the knee joint when they squat. If its not painful, its categorized as benign creptius which, again. is nothing to be concerned about. Many people experience this throughout their lives and never have any problems.

If it's any help my good knee does this a lot.

My physio said it shouldn't be a problem unless there is pain and suggested that I do itb releases on the foam roller twice a day for a few weeks and see if it goes away.

Edited by r31slpr

My pain is definitely not on the inside of my knee so to speak. It's on the outside edge where you'd expect your various quad ligaments to be attached to the patella. Can trigger the pain by firmly pressing/rubbing the area of the bone. It's exactly like I just banged my knee on the corner of a desk or something (or the head stem of a pushbike, as I've done countless times before)

Pain has zero - I repeat - ZERO to do with any muscles (though I won't discount they're somehow the cause). The pain is ON THE BONE. On the TOP EDGE of my patella (when standing upright). In case nobody here knows what your patella actually is (which I know isn't the case, but you're trying hard to prove otherwise lol), it's your KNEE CAP. Yes, the bone. My pain is ON THE BONE.

  • Like 1

The liquid chalk that I made up a while ago has worked extremely well.

One block of chalk and 385ml of isopropyl alcohol made up 2 x 200ml bottles, total cost was around $15, $5 for the chalk and $10 for the alcohol.

Same stuff sells for $20 to $30 for around 50ml on fleabay.

Crushed the chalk to dust by hand in a large zip lock bag, added the alco and mixed it by mashing it up in the bag.

To fill the bottles I cut the corner off one side of the bag and squeezed it into the bottle (got this by watching my missus ice a cake).

If your gym hates on chalk (and there is no alternative) then this could save you some bucks.

I actually put this on first up when I get to the gym, I put it on and grab the bar and it leaves a nice layer of chalk on the bar to start with, I only need to use dry chalk every so often then as it seems to stick better to my hands, probably the alco initially imbedding it into the pores of my hands.

Pain has zero - I repeat - ZERO to do with any muscles (though I won't discount they're somehow the cause). The pain is ON THE BONE. On the TOP EDGE of my patella (when standing upright). In case nobody here knows what your patella actually is (which I know isn't the case, but you're trying hard to prove otherwise lol), it's your KNEE CAP. Yes, the bone. My pain is ON THE BONE.

Nice use of caps lock. But i doubt highly THE BONE is causing pain. Unless you've hit it and bruised it.

tight quads MUSCLES AND LIGAMENTS pull on the patella BONE.

Pretty much any ache or pain in the body will be from muscles, tendons and ligaments.

Or unless I have (mild) patella tendonitis.

I'm sorry though, I just can't see how anything I said could point to muscle. I wouldn't be whinging if it was muscular, since then I'd at least know where the issue was.

Or unless I have (mild) patella tendonitis.I'm sorry though, I just can't see how anything I said could point to muscle. I wouldn't be whinging if it was muscular, since then I'd at least know where the issue was.

you do know that Itis means inflammation and tendon means the tendon, so patella tendonitis would be inflammation of the patella tendon.

Tendons attach the muscle to the bone....

Pain isn't always direct.

Yes I know "itis" more or less means the inflammation of. Regardless, the pain is where the tendon attaches to the bone, as confirmed by jamming my knuckle into the area of pain. Also everything I found regarding people experiencing pain in the same area or general information pages further suggest patella tendonitis.

I've had this same pain before from ramping up weight on leg press too quickly.

And yes I know the site/location of pain isn't always where the cause is - it could be from tight quads or something. The pain is on the edge of the bone, that I'm absolutely 100000000% certain of.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...