Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was doing some reading on the Australian Institute of Sport website last night. I was always under the impression that protein was the most important thing for building muscle, but apparently not so.

Straight from the AIS:

Source Link: AIS - Increasing Muscle Mass

Maybe not so relevant for some guys that just think about lifting weights and put on 2kg, but its definitely given me some 'food' ( :P ) for thought.

that would be more for athletes wanting performance (lean muscle gain, where being bulky isn't desired) rather than people wanting to simply bulk up. generally lean athletes (like cyclists) will use a 3:1 carbs to protein ratio as the carbs replenish what they've burnt and the protein helps replenish/rebuild the muscle.

Recently read an article (from earlier this year) that 12 of the brisbane broncos were over 150kg for their max bench, interesting stuff, and very cool to see some of the training techniques the different clubs use.

Anyone else got insight into football training techniques ?

Wonder what sups they use, probably tailored player to player. ?

Recently read an article (from earlier this year) that 12 of the brisbane broncos were over 150kg for their max bench, interesting stuff, and very cool to see some of the training techniques the different clubs use.

Anyone else got insight into football training techniques ?

Wonder what sups they use, probably tailored player to player. ?

be tailored to player, partly based off the position they play i'd say. a big front rower is going to need a drastically different sup regime to a position where they need to do a lot more running (rather than being a large, slow moving object that uses brute force to get past the opposition)

Recently read an article (from earlier this year) that 12 of the brisbane broncos were over 150kg for their max bench, interesting stuff, and very cool to see some of the training techniques the different clubs use.

Anyone else got insight into football training techniques ?

Wonder what sups they use, probably tailored player to player. ?

They tend to be very strong!

Footballers do not seem to do the same kind of strength training.

geelong football club (AFL) use BSC protein with creatine in it ive heard...

and ive seen things of hawthorn football club using chains hanging on each end of the barbell when doing bench press, so that when the bar is low nearly touching ur chest alot of the chains are on the ground, but as you push it higher it lifts more chains making it heavier for the easier part of the bench press...

and ive seen things of hawthorn football club using chains hanging on each end of the barbell when doing bench press, so that when the bar is low nearly touching ur chest alot of the chains are on the ground, but as you push it higher it lifts more chains making it heavier for the easier part of the bench press...

We have them at the gym. The ones we have are either 10 or 15kg at the top of the lift. Its designed to strengthen the triceps.

The "easy" part of the bench varies on the person, I can get it off the chest easily on most lifts but fail a small distance above the chest. :(

geelong football club (AFL) use BSC protein with creatine in it ive heard...

That's more so because of a corporate arrangement more than anything else i would imagine.

I can get a 45% discount @ BSC and their pricing is still more expensive than most other places without the discount. They pretty clearly price it through the roof if they can give such discounts in bulk.

Over-inflated pricing usually exists solely to make the discounts seem attractive to "VIP"s and corporate deals. Any full retail sales are a massive bonus lol.

I deal with the same thing when selling oil to workshops...a lot of customers say their oil supplier gives them 20% discount for loyalty etc. Interesting that new customers get the same discount as those who have been with them for 10 years...

as already mentioned, you can use chains on a lot of lifts to help with the lockout part at the end... also helps you build explosiveness as you drive hard at the start of the lift to get enough momentum to finish it

League totally different training to AFL and Union... no rapid stopping/change of direction, limited jumping, just giant battering rams... bench press is important for them as its all pushing... I bet they do a lot of tyre dragging and prowler work as well... similar to NFL training for the linemen and running backs etc

and they don't cover anywhere near as much ground over the course of a game... the age of the big full forward is pretty much over in the AFL, guys have to be a lot more agile and able to play multiple positions etc...

Barry Hall? close enough?

I'd love to see someone with the height/athleticism of NBA players in the AFL... Dwight Howard would be a sight to see

ps. doing a deadlift based session right before your going to spend the weekend bent over sanding/masking/painting skirting boards is a BAD idea

Aaron Sandilands or Dean Cox could probably pull it off...big Max Gawn when he matures into a decent ruck?

lol yeah don't recommend that at all. After spending the day bent over my engine bay I avoid doing lower back exercises where I can.

Yeah Aaron Sandilands is basically exactly the same height/weight as a Dwight Howard but the athleticism is worlds apart (its coz he's black innit)

7 footers in the NBA move like this these days

ps. Howard is jacked so its still kinda on topic :thumbsup:

Yeah Aaron Sandilands is basically exactly the same height/weight as a Dwight Howard but the athleticism is worlds apart (its coz he's black innit)

7 footers in the NBA move like this these days

ps. Howard is jacked so its still kinda on topic :thumbsup:

I'd agree worlds apart, but not one sportsman necessarily more athletic than the other. Just trained for different sports. Granted the African Americans tend to have a better predisposition for basketball and athletics in general...you have a football field vs a basketball court, foot skills versus hand skills...jumping and short sprints is about the only thing the sports share in common and I don't think either guy would be anywhere as good at the other's sport. That being said, quite a few AFL footballers have come from basket backgrounds and vice versa.

Regardless, dude above has nearly 40kg on me and is more agile lol.

Ok so Bent over barbell rows. Is your back supposed to be parallel with the floor or can you have it at around 45 degrees? I see videos that are done both ways.

Angled is safer/easier on the back and will target traps as well as lats...

I've changed up my pull day a bit now to include a few sets of 40kg Pendlay rows (horizontal, or as close as I can get there) as well as a few sets of 60kg 45 degree rows.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...