Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, after a couple of months of sweating the ID inspection, I got the 34 with NSW plates through Sturt Police today.

I thought that it would be referred to Regency for further inspection but it didn't happen. One of the boxes on the inspection sheet asks if further inspection is necessary but he ticked the 'NO' box......whew. :thumbsup:

Obviously coilovers, lowered slightly, airpods, wheelspacers, Kakimoto Dual N1 exhaust & BBS wheels with 265 rubber are all OK as long as they're within spec and all mounted well.

Now I can finally bolt on all the stuff that I've been acumulating for a few months.

good to hear :thumbsup:

Thanks Cara

hey congrats man!

post up some pics with the new goodies??

Thanks, I'll try.........but its things like bigger garrett turbos, cams, power fc, hks elec boost controller, injectors, fuel pump rail & reg, bigger tube & fin fmic, different air pods, improve existing exhaust with split dump pipes etc, better clutch and a few other hidden things.

Most of that stuff you don't realy see unfortuantely.

what garret turbos u thinking?

Wanted to stay low mount so I've already bought a pair of GT2860R 707160 -5.

No point in going top mounts or big single unless it sees the track or drag strip more than the street.

Thanks, I'll try.........but its things like bigger garrett turbos, cams, power fc, hks elec boost controller, injectors, fuel pump rail & reg, bigger tube & fin fmic, different air pods, improve existing exhaust with split dump pipes etc, better clutch and a few other hidden things.

Most of that stuff you don't realy see unfortuantely.

Wanted to stay low mount so I've already bought a pair of GT2860R 707160 -5.

No point in going top mounts or big single unless it sees the track or drag strip more than the street.

Not wasting any time are you? 350-400rwkW here we come.

*cough* and some 32s * cough*

*cough* and some stageas *cough*...lol ;)

Seriously though, the 2860rs -5 are basically the same size as the standard turbos from the research ive done recently, just with steel wheels.

Ive just fitted the 2860rs-7 to my 260rs, which in my case was the biggest i could go and keep them low mount cos theres not alot of room under there! The next up from there is either a -9 or -10 which the exhaust housings were too large to be mounted, but also they dont come on boost til very late either so it doesnt make it very streetable as a daily.

Not gospel of course, just what i had found out doing some poking around, so might be something you want to check! :(

*cough* and some stageas *cough*...lol >_<

Seriously though, the 2860rs -5 are basically the same size as the standard turbos from the research ive done recently, just with steel wheels.

Ive just fitted the 2860rs-7 to my 260rs, which in my case was the biggest i could go and keep them low mount cos theres not alot of room under there! The next up from there is either a -9 or -10 which the exhaust housings were too large to be mounted, but also they dont come on boost til very late either so it doesnt make it very streetable as a daily.

Not gospel of course, just what i had found out doing some poking around, so might be something you want to check! :P

i think you got the sizes mixed up

2860-5 (2530's) isnt same size as the standard turbos, and -5 is bigger than -7

*cough* and some stageas *cough*...lol >_<

Seriously though, the 2860rs -5 are basically the same size as the standard turbos from the research ive done recently, just with steel wheels.

Ive just fitted the 2860rs-7 to my 260rs, which in my case was the biggest i could go and keep them low mount cos theres not alot of room under there! The next up from there is either a -9 or -10 which the exhaust housings were too large to be mounted, but also they dont come on boost til very late either so it doesnt make it very streetable as a daily.

Not gospel of course, just what i had found out doing some poking around, so might be something you want to check! :P

Had me worried there for a minute :) . Just did some research and found the standard turbos have a .53 housing (actually stamped on the turbos) where the -5 has a .60 & .64 respectively. The -10 has a .64 with an optional .86 housing (too laggy for street and too narrow power band).

Also found out something interesting.....all new GT28 housings out of Garrett now are stamped 2560R but specs are still the same as 2860R....this straight from their website:

For those familiar with our product range, this means that the unit formerly known as "the GT28R" (part number 466541-1) is now in the GT25R family. More specifically, it is now a GT2560R model.

Wow, I can't believe it got through with wheel spacers - it really was your lucky day.

Sounds like your plans are for a nice tough real streetable GTR.

Surprised me thats for sure......probably because the wheels are just inside the guards that he didn't look or care about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...