Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I think the subject says it all but does anybody know where to get new rocker cover gaskets for a RB25det engine other than Nissan themselves? I rang Brighton Nissan today as I've been dealing with the guy there for years and he really looks after me price wise... well I hope he has, and he said that I'll be looking at $30.00 per side, there's actually 2, one for each cam but what I forgot to ask him was how much for the bolt seals coz they will also need replacing... no doubt.

I'm not to sure if the gaskets will come with the bolt seals but I'm guessing not... not 100% sure though meaning that there's about 20 odd bolt seals probably worth $3- $4 dollars each? it starts getting a little expensive! What do you guys think?

Does anyone know where to get new ones any cheaper with the bolt seals? Hope I don't sound like to much of a tight ass!

Thanks,

Gianni

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20106-common-r33-rocker-cover-gasket-leak/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I don't think $33 is too bad. Mine aren't leaking at all, so I would think generally speaking they last around 8 years or more. That beats the hell out of Commodore gaskets which are about $10 but leak straight out of the packet :D

I paid $26ea from Unley Nissan here in SA. I re-used the original bolt seals, no prob's so far.... if you ignore the fact that No:1 ringland cracked :D unrelated of course.

Make sure it is leaking before you go to the trouble of replacing them...

Quite common to spill oil down the intake side when topping the oil up and over time the spilt oil will progress towards the rear of the motor looking just like a leaky intake cam cover gasket...

Clean the oil off with a rag and some degreaser and see if the leak comes back... Mine didn't...

If it's the exhaust side though, probably rooted gasket...

Just my opinion tho...

  • 3 years later...
Anyone know what the part numbers are? Also, would the washer be important. I cant find a dealer where i live that has the washers in stock. they've got the belts though.

I'd be keen on the part numbers as well, my r33 started to leak a bit if i dont let the car warm up...can this be done easily at home?? just unscrew the bolts for the rocker covers and replace the seals etc??

my rocker covers are leaking aswell "aparently" the other workshop i was at changed them... cops ass!!!

how much for gen nissan rocker cover gaskets, i also need a gen nissan exhaust manifold gasket..

therepost-17300-1160253786.jpg you go

Those aren't the part numbers you need....the Nissan parts guy will probably just stare blankly at you. It's much better to have the full VIN of the car but here's what to do:

- double click on the empty box to the right of the one that says 'Part No'

- enter the first three numbers of the 'Part Code' shown in your list....in this case 132....and hit return

- FAST may throw up another box asking which model/year for the car (but rocker cover gaskets are pretty common across the range so perhaps not). If it does you'll have to select (click on) the relevent car/year line in the pop-up.

- the full PN's should now appear in the main window, along with some other info.

Hope that helps

Called Nissan Today:

Rocket Cover Gaskets..

Part No. 13270-58S01 (1x Each)

Part No. 13270-58S11 (1x Each)

Washers (Rubber)

Part No. 13268-58S01 (1x Set of 20 Seals)

Hope this helps. Rob

Screen dump for you :thumbsup:

untitled1ce0.th.gif

Oh and the price was about $30 bucks or so think it was $36 but under $40 each. They should have them for me by the next day :thumbsup: also found the part number for the rubber seals it comes in a set of 20 which will set you back about $2.45 each a full set is about $49.50/

Is there much to replacing them??? just unscrew the rocket covers and replace the seals?? obviously in a clean environment so no contaminants get in.

Cheers Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...