Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I just started my RB26 for the first time after a rebuild, so i had to prime the pump and turbo core etc with engine oil.

I was just wondering if those with oil coolers actually dump the oil within the cooler and then prime the cooler with new oil when they change their engine oil.

The reason im asking is that i just installed an Earls 19 row (wide) oil cooler, and the fittings are facing downwards. So in order to prime the cooler (probably about 1.5 litres with lines), its a massive pain in the arse, and requires removal of the braided lines etc etc.

I must have spent over 20 grand on the engine, so if i have to do it every 5000kms to avoid engine wear then so be it, but i was just wondering if i remove the old oil from the cooler, then prime the oil filter (and obviously engine) with new stuff, will the lack of oil in the cooler for a few seconds be damaging to the engine?

Its hard to explain, but hopefully you guys in the know will get what im talking about.

For those that are interested, the engine started no worries, and got oil pressure straight away. It started off the key with the Autronic SM4 and sounds great. This thing has been in build for about 4 years (after some bad luck and engine failures), so i was pretty nervous about something going wrong.

Anyway, ill include some pics of the cooler and the remote oil filter so you know what i mean. Sorry about the big files though.

Shaun.

post-11456-1200016425_thumb.jpg

post-11456-1200016625_thumb.jpg

post-11456-1200016707_thumb.jpg

I have a very similar setup only the oil filter is down low.... tried to prime the cooler but could only get a bit under 500ml in there with everything connected (feeding using funnel into dash10 braid not fun). I'm thinking crank it for a few seconds (no fuel) till I get oil pressure then start it normally. Im fairly sure the oil filter being so low self primes on mine though, well it filled with oil when I filled the sump anyway. Yet to start it though, waiting on ecu (also an sm4).

btw your engine looks very similar to mine :P

post-1925-1200024421_thumb.jpg

Edited by DCIEVE

Yeah, i disconnected the injectors and cranked it for aaaages, but i discovered you cant get oil pressure off the starter motor.

I was thinking of getting a mechanical pump (like a holley blue or something) with dash 10 fittings and connecting it to a battery so i can pump oil straight from the bottle into the cooler. Might be a bit of an overkill though.

I love the SM4. Where/how are you mounting yours?

Im just in the process of mounting mine in the factory position, but im finding it really hard to make it look stock! The worst thing i ever did was take my car out of rego! Now ive gotta try to convince the engineer that the computer is standard so that i dont have to get emissions tested.

Shaun.

post-11456-1200026817_thumb.jpg

interesting point.

I never primed the cooler on my 180 and if you hadnt started it for ages then sometimes you would get a little rattle from the timing chain when it lost oil for that fraction as the cooler/lines etc filled up. And like you said there is that small volume of oil still in there you cannot get out when you change the oil.

If you crank the motor you wont get oil pressure no, but it will pump some around, there a postive displacement so the oil has to go some where.

Im interested to know what anyone recomends on this as i want to put an oil cooler on my stagea and i dont wana kill a expensive motor either.

interesting point.

I never primed the cooler on my 180 and if you hadnt started it for ages then sometimes you would get a little rattle from the timing chain when it lost oil for that fraction as the cooler/lines etc filled up. And like you said there is that small volume of oil still in there you cannot get out when you change the oil.

If you crank the motor you wont get oil pressure no, but it will pump some around, there a postive displacement so the oil has to go some where.

Im interested to know what anyone recomends on this as i want to put an oil cooler on my stagea and i dont wana kill a expensive motor either.

its hard to think how u would get every little bit of dirty oil out of the cooler isnt it cuz it would be silly to have like a litre of shitty oil in the cooler that goes into the sump and mixes with fresh new oil hmmmm how could we get around this

you disconnect the bottom fitting on the cooler and drain it separately :) not exactly rocket science.

I have been advised by certain knowledgeable people that oil coolers should be mounted on their side with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the top to avoid an air pocket within the core. Makes sense if you think about it simply, but in practice will the core fill if mounted like shaun's? Mines mounted the same way btw, except compared to shauns extruded brackets mine may as well be held in with fencing wire and duct tape :rolleyes:

the easier way, yet more expensive way, is to drain the oil, then fill it up with new oil, then run it up to temp... then drain this again. you could also use engine flush with the new oil that you have put in before the draining.

then once its all drained, put your good oil in it and away you go. that way all the old oil sitting in the cooler is going to be flushed out from the previous drain.

hell of a lot less messier :rolleyes:

you disconnect the bottom fitting on the cooler and drain it separately :) not exactly rocket science.

I have been advised by certain knowledgeable people that oil coolers should be mounted on their side with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the top to avoid an air pocket within the core. Makes sense if you think about it simply, but in practice will the core fill if mounted like shaun's? Mines mounted the same way btw, except compared to shauns extruded brackets mine may as well be held in with fencing wire and duct tape :rolleyes:

Yeah, getting the old oil out of the cooler is easy, as mentioned above. There would still be some left in the lines, but i dont think it would be significant when filled up with 7 litres of new stuff.

The issue is getting new stuff to the cooler. Now you mention it, the way mine is mounted, it wouldnt just go in the bottom of the cooler and straight out the other side without permiating through the whole core would it? Hope not. Surely there would be enough pressure there to create a 'backlog' of oil in the cooler that would permiate through the rest of it, and they told me that it didnt matter which way it was mounted.

When i felt the cooler, it was all pretty hot.

Oh, im pretty obsessive conpulsive with mounting things and oil issues.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun

some taxi's do - but i was getting at the lack of cold start conditions as their key to long engine life

from what my mate told me (he did a fair bit of research), a lot of truck/logistic companies use them as standard on their trucks

on his 300zx, when he turns on to accessories he sees oil pressure. that's before he turns to start the engine. it doesn't get much better than that.

if i were to do any kind of rebuild i would definately consider this, especially if my engine is worth more than my car (as in your case)

Edited by WazR32GTSt
I thought i had an obsessive compulsive issue, the 10's of hours iv spent stressing over oil and fuel lines. Setup, maintenance, long term effects etc :P

Good to see im not the only one LoL

Yeah, im definately OCD. I mop my garage floor more than those in my house.

Shaun.

Rofl, i cut specifically shaped pieces of foam and fit them, every time i remove i.manifold, e.manifold, power steering lines etc etc. I comb my carpet and wax the bottom of my feet!

...

..

ok, i made those last two up for affect.

But seriousally, with all the dough you pour into a car, to think a fuel / oil issue could kill your motor dead quick, pains me, hence the thought out modifications :P

Yeah, i think ill just prime the oil filter and then unplug the injectors and crank it over for a while. I wont see oil pressure bit at least it wil circulated oil around a bit.

Shaun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...