Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I got a r32 gtst-t RB20DET and a few weeksago it was running on 5 cylinders. I unplugged coilpacks one by one and found cylinder 2 was no go. I pulled out the sparkplug and coilpack and cleaned them, put them back in and it was good.

Its just happened again. Yesterday i change oil filter and oil. Then regapped plugs from 1mm to 0.8mm (with feeler gauges) Then started car and it was running on 5 cylinders. Checked them and it was cylinder 2 again. So i bought new plugs and put them in and still same thing. Then i pulled the coilpack off sparkplug and left it connected, started the car and it was definately working as electricity was coming out.

Still no good.... so i compression tested motor and it has 150psi across all cylinders. What could be happening?? Im thinking maybe the igniter??

I bought splitfire coilpacks.. on their way.. but im geussing they dont have a new igniter. Are there any cheap aftermarket igniters? Are r33 and r32 igniters the same? Or is it definately not the igniter///?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201215-rb20det-cylinder-2-no-go/
Share on other sites

i changed the plugs thinking they may be at fault.

The coilpack is sparking but some one PM me and said its easier for coilpack to spark to atmosphere than it is when its inside engine..

As for the loom.... i have llooked but not many wires are uncovered... i will try a mates loom and see how it goes..

also a question... i had the coilpack plugged into loom but not on sparkplug... turned the car on and sparks were coming from underneath where i expected at bottom of stem... but also at the top... is this not right?? Or is it meant to spark there too. Im guessing its not. Ive been told to put silicone on my coilpacks to increase their performance but never understood what they meant... im thinking maybe put silicome at the top to stop loose sparks??

thanks

ok... so still having troubles really in need of help.

Sum it up... cylindr 2 is not firing still. I know this cause when i unplug cyl 2 coilpack look it stays same (running bad) then any others makes it worse.

Remedies i have tried to fix it but to no avail..

Brand new Colder NGK Spark Plugs

Brand new SplitFire coilpacks

Igniter off a working skyling

Coilpack loom

Compression tested to 150psi

STILL NO GOOD!!!! What else can it be!! Im in dieing need. Please help

Have you checked that its not fuel that is the problem in #2?

Is the injector firing?

jus spoke to mechanic today nd he said to check if injectors r running. I dnt really know what im looking for but i geuss ill put a pices of steel rod against injector and use it as a stethascope (sp) and listen for a little tick. If number 2 had a dull sound it obviously isnt wrking correctly. But he said it still might tick but fuel just might not be getting through.

Ill check this sometime tomoro or sunday and post up.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
×
×
  • Create New...