Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another reason they can blink fast is iff you replace your blinkers with smaller ones like i did it lowers the resistance and the flasher unit thinks there is a blown globe you either need a different flasher unit or wire in some larger globes like i did

I'm not sure if this is relevant but when I disconnected the front indicator/foggy connector

and turned the indicator on, though there's no light but the interior dash indicator indicator flashes like crazy

I'm not sure if this is relevant but when I disconnected the front indicator/foggy connector

and turned the indicator on, though there's no light but the interior dash indicator indicator flashes like crazy

i think its the same situation where if a globe is broken you have broken the curcuit so if a globe is removed the curcuit is broken too? not 100% if that correct though..

^ yep, broken curcuit will make it flash faster too. i recently had this happen after putting my front bar back on. i thought it was a blown globe, but actually it was making poor contact in the holder. cleaned it up, problem solved.

If you havent changed anything then its going to be a blown globe.

i know it started with mine because i put smaller indicators into my front bar as i hated the big ugly orange ones.

i dont mind them flashing fast but does anyone know if its illegal?

If you havent changed anything then its going to be a blown globe.

i know it started with mine because i put smaller indicators into my front bar as i hated the big ugly orange ones.

i dont mind them flashing fast but does anyone know if its illegal?

Could cause people to have seizures(sp?). So would say that it's illegal.

there is a legal rate that all cars in australia must flash between, cant remember what it is off the top of my head, fairly decent size range though, also on my 32 i noticed it doing this, stupid thing has 2 blinker globes in the corner lights, took me a while to relalise

I've got this problem of having them go fast one day and normal the next. I think there's something loose.

I get this on mine from time to time. Turns out there's a water leak letting drops of water into the socket for the rear lights and causing a short. Once it dries out, it all works fine. When the rain stops after a wet period, I usually spray some electronic cleaner in there which evaporates the water real fast...

Might be something else on yours though.

Ok yesterday I took out the Amber lens after heating it in the oven,

put in some orange bulbs and glad wrap over the indicators (just a temporary solution)

connected it back up and today my indicators go like crazy, everything is working

but the indicators are flashing like 3 times a second.

It goes back to normal when I put the emergency lights on.

Any ideas guys?

Edited by POLICE
I get this on mine from time to time. Turns out there's a water leak letting drops of water into the socket for the rear lights and causing a short. Once it dries out, it all works fine. When the rain stops after a wet period, I usually spray some electronic cleaner in there which evaporates the water real fast...

Might be something else on yours though.

Hrmm, cheers for that mate. I'm gonna keep an eye out what happens after a down pour.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...