Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm getting an AVC-R fitted tomorrow and I just realised that I should probably be taking along a fuel pump..

I'm just wondering how many rwkw's the standard R34 GTT fuel pump can handle?

I know it's been asked before, I searched but couldn't find..

My S2 stagea has ~160awkw which translates roughly to 180rwkw. If I raise the boost even just 1-2psi it hits "boost cut" (R&R, but it cuts the fuel briefly).

I've been told by a workshop that around 180rwkw is approaching the limits of the standard fuel pump. I have standard regulator/injectors. I believe the standard regulator and injectors can go a bit higher, maybe 200rwkw? anyone know for sure?

I'd like to run 14psi through mine and would like to think that a fuel pump is all I need also...so I'm quite interested in this thread...

id say around 200kw + ish is around the max

i wouldnt use it with a larger turbo basically

its probably pretty good & fine for the std turbo

220kw is do-able with std pump - it just depends - i mean it could be on it's knees and only just making it or it could be fine

a dyno plot with afr and fuel pressure will tell you all you need to know

i guess its important to note if it cant keep up and you lean out and you dont notice - rebuild time

mate i ran 220rwkw on stock fuel pump and injectors, but no one believes me. so yeh lol

rays dyno is like 20kw out i reckon, i've seen a dyno sheet from an r33 with a hks25/30, stock injectors making 250rwkws on his dyno, i dont believe it haha.

Is the bosch 044 a straight drop in on the R34 GTT?? or does it need to be modified??

needs to be strapped to the craddle and needs to be mounted really low inside the tank.

staight drop in pumps are like $400+ from nismo or tomei.

From a dollars and cents point of view often the relivant series R32/3/4 GTR pumps can be good .

I'd be asking if R33 or R34 GTR pumps fall in and go that way for a mild upgrade .

Given a choice I would prefer slightly larger injectors over higher fuel rail pressure but it naturally costs more . The flow on benefit (yeh I know) is that at the std fuel rail pressure the pump should be able to keep its volume capacity up a little longer .

The Bosch 044 pump moves a lot of fuel at low pressures and you can at times have fuel temperature issues because so much fuel is doing circuits from the tank and back . Could be a case of too much overkill .

Cheers A .

so if we're talking about a bit over 200rwkw on an r33 (stock turbo), you think the stock fuel pump would be a concern? considering it is working fine, and doesnt seem to struggle on the dyno with afr's, or on the road, ie surging etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

It might not struggle now, but get it checked every 6 months or so on a Dyno IMO.

Plenty have not been upto the task @ 200rwkw when AFR's lean out too easily.

So as long as you keep a tab on it regularly it will be 'ok' if you want to risk the couple of hundred

Just change the stock fuel pump. Its not worth tryin to save a couple hundred bucks when it can result in a lean out and engine rebuild. Also if you choose to do other mods in the future its going to have to be changed anyway. Its not worth being a cheap ass over.

I have run the GTT pump to it's limits.

224rwkw when auto so add a few more kw to compare to manual. I did a track day and I can honestly say that I scraped through. The colour of the exhaust changed markedly as it was running very lean. Somehow I didn't blow it then so I decided to blow it later. (jokes - but I did blow it).

DO NOT TRUST A WALBRO PAST 240RWKW. Have I emphasised this enough? Pay attention.

its important to note the flow rates of the walbro's are rated at 15v

if you install a wallbro in your std skyline it only gets 12v

so you either need to step up to the next model or run direct wiring from the battery

most people dont do this so it could explain why its "performing less than expected"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...