Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey People, Ive owned a R33 for about 3 years and never had a licence in this time, i get it back in around 6 months and im looking to make some decent power. My goal is around 300RWKW however im not an expert and really dont know too much.

Already have

APEXI Power FC

Turbosmart Boost T

Hybrid front mount intercooler

Turbosmart stage 3 dual port BOV

3" stainless Exhaust

Plan to buy:

Turbo HKS GT3037 Pro S (0.68 or 0.87) Internal wastegate?? i realise the 0.68 will come onto boost sooner however on a RB25 im not sure where it will top out? i think the 0.87 will me a safer bet id really appreciate the advice on this.

Nismo 740cc injectors (however looking now at 555cc or equiv nismo size) do i really need a custom fuel rail if these injectors fit?

Splitfire coils (already have coils wrapped in electrical tape)

Walbro 255L/h Intank fuel pump

I have suspension plans - strut braces/breaks (But really looking for advice on how to get to the 300KW figure).

Once the suspension, interior and such is done ill then look at doing engine and head work and possibly at that point manifold, new turbo and external wastegate setup.

Any advice is appreciated!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201694-r33-300kw-upgrade-plan-help/
Share on other sites

if your going to go for the 0.68 rear i would maybe loko at the GT-RS might have better response with a 0.64 a/r rear - the compressor might be more matched/suited

550cc's nismo's are fine and direct fit for rb25 as long as you get Skyline R33 ones - ie: dont get SR20 550cc's

alot more has to be done like mani's and cams to achieve 300rwkws out of a 3037 plus 20+ psi usually however garrett gt3040 will do you better plus keep in mind if you just buy the turbo custom dump/front coming your way, oh and 0.87 safer bet on tyres n shtuff as well

hey to get 300rwkw you will need to use a 600hp+ IMO rated turbo or higher to flow that amount of air to achieve the goal even so something like a gt3040 will need 21psi+ to get this too. 740cc injectors would the min you would go in size I personally know someone though that is making over 300rwkw with a gtr-s turbo :/

The bigger the turbo, doesnt mean you have to run less boost to make the same power (neccesarily).

your still going to be running more than 16psi to make a legit 300rwkw with a 3037, probably 18+

Where a GT-RS would be 20+ to get there based on all the results in the dyno sticky thread (have you read it?)

These threads would be a good read for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HK...tml&hl=3037

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/So...tml&hl=3037

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hk...tml&hl=3037

550cc injectors are all that's needed. Heaps of people are running them and are topping the 300 mark.

Someone mentions in one of those posts changing the head gasket to lower the compression which helped him avoid early detonation. Could be wrong on that one?

The other question you might want to ask is how long will it last without internals such as forged pistons and stuff.

My car is in at the moment getting that turbo on and should have it back in the next week or two so I'll let you know what i put down.

Ive actually found the following turbo kit!

480HP HKS GT-3037 ProS Turbo kit + Suction + Dump Pipe + fitting kit

Best for Nissan Skyline ECR33 R33 & ER34 R34 RB25det Engine

Item is Brand New. Never Sold in Retail. package included

1 x New HKS GT-3037 Pro S is 56T A/R 0.68

1 x New HKS ProS Dump Pipe

1 x New HKS Suction Intake Pipe

Full Fitting kit & accessories & Gasket & needed piping.

Full kit direct bolt on. What you see in Picture are What you get

It is sold as a full turbo conversion kit.. everything needed... ive seen a million photos... even comes with instructions :P (in japanese) lol.. its ok though.. ive swapped out turbos before.. shouldnt be to hard i hope!! the turbo on its own you can get for approx $2,822.77AU landed where the whole kit is $3367 LANDED (3 day delivery) theres also a GT2835 full kit which is also $3147.50 landed. Keep in mind.. i am eventually planning on doing engine work etc. im thinking 3037.. but 2835 seems to be a smarter more streetable idea i just really like the idea of being drivin back in the seat when it does come onto boost..

Anyone seen what a 3037 Pro S on a RB25 comes onto boost at with a 0.68 rear? a 0.87 is around 3500rpm. you would have to expect around 3000 or lower wouldnt you?

once again thanks for the advice!

IMO I'd be planning for more than just turbo + injectors + pump.

I hope you've already got a twin plate clutch and have considered some engine work (top + bottom).

If you make 300rwkw (which i hope you do) the engine/tranny will wear much faster.

You can rebuild it now for the long-term with forgies, cams, valves, v. springs etc. all to match target performance. Or you can rebuild it once its clapped out.

I wouldn't go the 0.68. You'll end up spending more money changing it over to something like a .87 the thing will hit boost and have you wheel spinning.

You will risk blowing your engine without the rebuild as many people have pointed out in numerous posts about this exact turbo and power goals.

I'll list the parts going into my car with this turbo at the moment and if maybe someone can go from there if i miss any

Exedy brass button clutch

550cc HKS injectors

Apexi PFC

HKS type s intercooler

HKS 1.6mm Head gasket

HKS cams 256 intake, 264 exhaust

Splitfire direct injection system

Tomei fuel pump

Blitz i-color boost controller

Custom exhaust manifold

4inch dump to 3 1/4 inch cat back

turbosmart external waste

z32 airflow meter

Probably a few other things to add which i forgot but others might mention.

This will still fall somewhat short of what could be achieved of that turbo. You really need to build that bottom end.

hey to get 300rwkw you will need to use a 600hp+ IMO rated turbo or higher to flow that amount of air to achieve the goal even so something like a gt3040 will need 21psi+ to get this too. 740cc injectors would the min you would go in size I personally know someone though that is making over 300rwkw with a gtr-s turbo :blink:

Go the GT-RS turbot!!!!

Go the GT-RS turbot!!!!

hey im no expert but id love to know how someone can get 300kw out of a gtrs as iv tried many times on a dyno even with race fuel 109,the turbo runs out of puff at high rpm and boost drops off but a buckets of torque ,you mite get it with nos ,thats my next step. go a hks 3037 kit with all the bits needed if you really hell bent for 300kw,a gtrs is a great street turbo it depends what you really must have.

my mods on 22 psi

Nismo thermostate

Nismo high flow fuel pump

Nismo engine mounts

Nismo gear box mounts

Nismo 550cc injectors

Nismo flywheel

Excedy custom clutch

Eagle conrods

ARP head studs

Arias pistons & rings

Acl engine bearings

Custom Radiator 40mm

splitfires coil packs

Sard sports magnetic oil filters

Sard annodised aluminium cooling oil block

Sard fuel regulator adaptor

Sard fuel regulator

Nissan N1 oil pump

Nissan water pump

Apex power FC

Greddy remote switching system

Greddy boost controller

Greddy oil catch can

Greddy blow off valve

Greddy intake plenum

Fujitsubo exhaust

Catco stainless high flow cat converter

3" dump pipe

Front mount intercooler

Custom turbo intake pipe

Custom air box

Radiator air guide

custom radiator

HKS valve springs

HKS cam shafts 256-intake

HKS cam shafts 264-exhaust

HKS turbo kit GTRS

HKS wiring harness for Z32 AFM

Bosch Z32 air flow m

Gates timing belt

Billion super solid coolant line

+++++++++++++++++++

Edited by WARLORD

well hows this sound three guesses and then ill tell.just so i can see what one would pay to what i paid

this was done in july 2007

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...tml&hl=gtrs

Edited by WARLORD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...