Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As far as i know, VW's and Audi's that are manufactured in Mexico are the only ones destined for the North & South American market.

Australia receives all its shipments from EU (European Union) Germany.

On my latest trip to China, I've noticed lots of VW have chinese character replacing the brand name and/or model.

At first I thought it was just local badging until our tour guides pointed out and tell us that VW has a factory in China...

Volkswagen Made in China. If their Sth Africa factory ran out of capacity, you never know they may top up the stock from China. At least cars coming out of china are likely LHD, but nothing stopping them to start producing RHD and for export market...

  • Replies 213
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just 'happened' to come across this thread....and I'm really quite confused about what we're all actually talkin about.

I PROUDLY love the Nissan Skyline series..all of them..from the 60's to the new gen.......but I'm at a point in my life where I want handling, styling and a little class for around 35k....but without the 'hoon' badge.

So I bought this....and I think it's perfect..for me anyway, and really, what else matters?

I drove similarly priced Euros and Australian cars, and couldn't find anything else that made me smile as much.

That pic of your car with hundreds of windscreen hanging on the wall... are you in the windscreen business?

just wondering how easy is it to source V35 windscreens (dun need one for now, but just in case)...

are they the same as 350z windscreen?

Phatboy your replies get better by the day. Leather seats and sat nav LOL

Do you realise the Sahara diesel starts at $111,000 plus you have added a minimum of $15,000 worth of mods (thats on the cheap side). Thats around $126k.........are you really going to take a $126k 4wd anywhere even slightly offroad....i can just imagine your face when you put a nice set of scratches along the side and on your precious leather seats hahahahahaahah. Sorry mate but your a yuppy or a wannabe yuppy at that. I wish i owned the ARB store that you walk into after you buy the LC. They will see you coming a mile away......"Oh sir did you know you really should have a set of these....and also these....oooow you cant go offroad without this" HAHAHAHAHAHAHA love it.

A LC sahara is a Toorak/ soccer mum mobile....hardly the vehicle for a lift and 35's!!!!! I cant say i ahve seen any of them in the bog holes around Mt Dissapointment and Toolangi recently.

The 200 series LC is not really the offroad 4wd of choice as it has independant front suspension which is great around town but sh!t offroad (the tracks your talking about). Its very big and VERY heavy.

Anyway when you buy it send me a PM and i will take you a few places close to melb

PS: I run my muds full time on my patrol as they are not that bad on road.

PSS: I use my snatch strap as a last resort and generally only for light bogged/stuck vehicles.....too much energy stored in the strap for my liking.

Here is a vid my mate made from a day trip in 07. Nothing hard core by all means.....just notice the vehicle that gets stuck the worst and flooded inside....he is the only one with lockers

Pat 1

Part 2
Phatboy your replies get better by the day. Leather seats and sat nav LOL

Do you realise the Sahara diesel starts at $111,000 plus you have added a minimum of $15,000 worth of mods (thats on the cheap side). Thats around $126k.........are you really going to take a $126k 4wd anywhere even slightly offroad....i can just imagine your face when you put a nice set of scratches along the side and on your precious leather seats hahahahahaahah. Sorry mate but your a yuppy or a wannabe yuppy at that. I wish i owned the ARB store that you walk into after you buy the LC. They will see you coming a mile away......"Oh sir did you know you really should have a set of these....and also these....oooow you cant go offroad without this" HAHAHAHAHAHAHA love it.

A LC sahara is a Toorak/ soccer mum mobile....hardly the vehicle for a lift and 35's!!!!! I cant say i ahve seen any of them in the bog holes around Mt Dissapointment and Toolangi recently.

The 200 series LC is not really the offroad 4wd of choice as it has independant front suspension which is great around town but sh!t offroad (the tracks your talking about). Its very big and VERY heavy.

Anyway when you buy it send me a PM and i will take you a few places close to melb

PS: I run my muds full time on my patrol as they are not that bad on road.

PSS: I use my snatch strap as a last resort and generally only for light bogged/stuck vehicles.....too much energy stored in the strap for my liking.

Here is a vid my mate made from a day trip in 07. Nothing hard core by all means.....just notice the vehicle that gets stuck the worst and flooded inside....he is the only one with lockers

Pat 1

Part 2

And your replies get more and more bewildering, as if you haven't read anything I posted :P

1. When did I saw I was going to get a cruiser? Let alone a Sahara. I have said multiple times it is too expensive, so I am not buying it. The only reason I mentioned it was because you erroneously said the lancruisers come from the factory with 200L - which they don't, not even close. I said twice I am going to get a 2010 Patrol - what's your argument?

2. M/T on the road may be tolerable for you at freeway speeds, but I would rather have A/Ts for my passengers.

3. As I said, I don't intend on using a snatch strap - just a winch.

4. Nice videos, although Part 1 doesn't work. You fail to see my point. The 4WD with lockers got stuck not BECAUSE he had lockers. He could have easily switched them off and bang - hey locker-free as you like. He got stuck DESPITE lockers due to other factors. If he didn't have lockers on he would be just as stuck. Of course lockers are not very useful if both wheels are on the ground and the terrain is equally bad for both wheels, but it just gives you an extra option if needed.

That's good to hear. Last time (Dec 08) I asked at Alan Mance they said they wouldn't get more stock until Apr 09.

The clubby wagon looks great. 317kw = better to battle the uber-expensive euro wagons with.

Local Dealer also has a Demo SSV Sportwagon in Black.......

I drove all the way out to Alan Mance ( 3+ hr trip for me ) to check out a SS Wagon they had at a crazy price in Dec, I didnt buy it, decided to wait to for a ripper deal on a Clubsport Touring wagon......

:P

Local Dealer also has a Demo SSV Sportwagon in Black.......

I drove all the way out to Alan Mance ( 3+ hr trip for me ) to check out a SS Wagon they had at a crazy price in Dec, I didnt buy it, decided to wait to for a ripper deal on a Clubsport Touring wagon......

:P

You got it in the end? How does it go? Does it have decent space?

I will agree to disagree.

After the R33 i think i'm going to wait and get a 6L SS when they come down in price a bit. I have always owned wagons (besides 33) but you tend to pay a little more for them. I think the 6L commodore is a fairly good compromise for a big spacious family car and go alright with a few minor mods.

Speaking of wagons i went with my mum to go buy a Ford e gas wagon the other day and to my suprise IT STILL HAS LEAF SPRINGS!!!! What joke!!! My Vp Wagon back in 93 had rear coils!!! She still bought it.

I will agree to disagree.

After the R33 i think i'm going to wait and get a 6L SS when they come down in price a bit. I have always owned wagons (besides 33) but you tend to pay a little more for them. I think the 6L commodore is a fairly good compromise for a big spacious family car and go alright with a few minor mods.

Speaking of wagons i went with my mum to go buy a Ford e gas wagon the other day and to my suprise IT STILL HAS LEAF SPRINGS!!!! What joke!!! My Vp Wagon back in 93 had rear coils!!! She still bought it.

OK cool, I agree - no point arguing.

From what I have heard and seen the 6L SS is a great car, especially in Sportwagon form - looks dead sexy. Let us know what you think of it when you get it, because the SS wagon was the other choice I had in mind if no suitable 4WD came out by the time I needed a 50k family vehicle. I'll just have to not offroad it then :P

Unfortunately it will be a while until i buy one....i need to justify the money i spent on the 33 hehheheh.

For the money, space and performance i think an SS or Turbo falcon are the go but i wouldnt buy one new. They are much better value after a couple of years. Get an injected LPG system on them and they will be cheap as ships to run.

Unfortunately it will be a while until i buy one....i need to justify the money i spent on the 33 hehheheh.

For the money, space and performance i think an SS or Turbo falcon are the go but i wouldnt buy one new. They are much better value after a couple of years. Get an injected LPG system on them and they will be cheap as ships to run.

Ah, ok that's cool.

Would running on LPG decrease their power? Can you mod/turbo LPG-run engines? Not sure - haven't had any experience with that.

I also had a look at the Ford Territory Turbo and F6X (has the same engine as the XR6T I believe). On paper it looks great but somehow it just doesn't appeal to me, looks pretty bland, and obviously not a true offroader like other larger 4WDs.

Ford territory drivers are the worst drivers in OZ!!! Everysingle time I see one the person behind the wheel is driving it like they are in F1!! tailgating, speeding, erratic changing of lanes etc. etc. People must think that because they have an XR6 engine in them that they must drive like one! They sh1t me to tears!!!!!

Ford territory drivers are the worst drivers in OZ!!! Everysingle time I see one the person behind the wheel is driving it like they are in F1!! tailgating, speeding, erratic changing of lanes etc. etc. People must think that because they have an XR6 engine in them that they must drive like one! They sh1t me to tears!!!!!

Its that Ford Territory Turbo ad where they eat up Ferrari's, Lamborghini's and all other high performance exotics.

F**king retarded if you ask me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...