Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust Power Extreme 2 Problem

delljit

By delljit,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

delljit Community Regular

delljit

Posted
Posted

Just fitted a catback exhaust and the pipe is tapping the diff when i shake it (go over bumps, driveways etc).

Any one had this problem? Do i have to adjust the hangers somehow? Any quick fixes for this like a heat resistant rubber stopper i can block up the gap between the diff and the pipe with?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202301-trust-power-extreme-2-problem/
Share on other sites
Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

ok this may sound a silly question it is the one suited for the skyline? The hangers you may be able to locate stiffer ones(mounts the rubber ones), prolly best see you local exhaust shop and ask them as they might be able to quick fix it for you or point you in the right way, Part from that as far as i know i dont think you can put rubber (as i dont think there is anything capable of high heat) inbetween dif and the exhaust as it would be too close to the metal surface of the exhaust and would eventually melt burn etc.

The ole saying fix it once fix it properly comes into mind there as well... Someone might have a better solution but the hangers might be the best bet, which will most likely be exhaust shop at the end of the day, it shouldnt be all too much to get fixed anyway

delljit Community Regular

delljit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I left it high res so you can really see everything. I circled the little bit that taps. There is about 5mm clearance, however the exhaust is able to move when you apply a bit of force. Very noticeable when you change gears and the car is moving.

post-38346-1200814335_thumb.jpg

gt-t_r34 Mentor

gt-t_r34

Posted
Posted

i was thinkin my blitz exhaust has not just the weld on the outside where the hangers are it has one on the inside as well.. yours looks 2 be sliding down the hangers a bit which is bringing it closer to the diff... soo maybe just get something on there to hold the hangers in the rite spot it should give u a bit more clearance... when i go on dirt road my exhaust bumps against the top of my rear bumper its kinda annoying too but nothin i can do about it...

hope that made sense good luck

jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

it shouldnt really move around that much though? i dont even have the bracket above the cat its held only by the front pipe and the rubbers and it sits tight.

when you removed the old one, did you remove the bolts or just pull the hangers out of the rubber? it may be that you put a bolt on the wrong side somewhere.

my advice; see if you can just bend the hangers with a big shifter (no need to remove exhaust) so that it sits a bit better, but trust exhaust on my 33 was perfect

delljit Community Regular

delljit

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

only unbolted one of the rubber hangers, which happens to be the one you can see in the pic. The other ones didnt unbolt, but we took them off to get everything off the stock muffler easier. Im pretty sure we idnt mix them up, but i dunno. That hanger pictured is a little stretched, i might just try replace them all with new universal rubbers. Otherwise if that doesnt work, its bending time.

other than that tho, the exhaust sounds nice :P

Edited by delljit
moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
Posted
I left it high res so you can really see everything. I circled the little bit that taps. There is about 5mm clearance, however the exhaust is able to move when you apply a bit of force. Very noticeable when you change gears and the car is moving.

post-38346-1200814335_thumb.jpg

i remember the day when my exhaust was that shiny :ph34r: .... then about a week later it was all gone... now a year later... its definitely all gone :)

on the actual topic though. very strange you have movement in the exhaust. when mine fitted up it was seriously tight and wasn't going to be moving anywhere

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

you need to fit it all up then tighten the bolts or else it wont fit up str8, imagine a bit out at the cat (both F & R bolts) then a bit more out at the centre join and you are gonna be prety close to anything. loosen the lot off then nip it enough to move it into position then tighten.

i 100% know it is in the positioning not the exhuast..... i have never had one not fit and we have sold container loads ....

delljit Community Regular

delljit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you need to fit it all up then tighten the bolts or else it wont fit up str8, imagine a bit out at the cat (both F & R bolts) then a bit more out at the centre join and you are gonna be prety close to anything. loosen the lot off then nip it enough to move it into position then tighten.

i 100% know it is in the positioning not the exhuast..... i have never had one not fit and we have sold container loads ....

Hmm, now that you mention it join in the middle section of the exhaust didnt have circle holes for the bolts they were oval. I had a closer look at the flange and it might be 1 or 1.5mm out. The cat section looked ok, but then again they were circle holes if i remember corectly so i doubt it wouldve been out any.

Will put the car on ramps again tomorrow, loosen the bolts and try to align it differently. Also got a couple of new hanger mounts to try out.

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted

I had exactly this problem.. turns out, it was front pipe being 3-4cm too long. So what I did was had about 3-4cm lopped off the cat .. if you can picture the cat.. looking like |==[ ]==|... then afterwards it was |==[ ]=| ... it then sat 100% perfectly. As mentioned above.. it's definately not the exhaust it's the positioning.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
I had exactly this problem.. turns out, it was front pipe being 3-4cm too long. So what I did was had about 3-4cm lopped off the cat .. if you can picture the cat.. looking like |==[ ]==|... then afterwards it was |==[ ]=| ... it then sat 100% perfectly. As mentioned above.. it's definately not the exhaust it's the positioning.

did you use a local aftermarket cat? i know the stupid xforce (all nissan) ones are based on aussie s15 cats and they are 3-4cm longer than the jap ones which are all the same size.

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted

Didn't pay much attention, I bought the cat from the forums. But i knew for certain the front pipe i had was too long, it was bought again from a sponsor here and didn't mate up to the original cat + cat-back. This problem was later recognised and the subsequent batches i believe for the r34 benefitted from my input.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...