Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey mate,

You paid for yours just over 2 weeks ago yeh? They should be ready in a few weeks. Be patient, because believe me.....the results are worth it!!

Psymon and the other guy that wanted these...

email me at [email protected] and I'll see what I can do.

Thanks guys.....glad there are a few more happy drivers out there

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey mate,

You paid for yours just over 2 weeks ago yeh? They should be ready in a few weeks. Be patient, because believe me.....the results are worth it!!

Psymon and the other guy that wanted these...

email me at [email protected] and I'll see what I can do.

Thanks guys.....glad there are a few more happy drivers out there

Hey get your guys to send in some pics of the final job. Once again as you say if it's all mickey mouse i'd love to jump on the next GB

received mine today, look good so far, only one thing they forgot to emboss the logo on the back seats, never mind though. Will have a go at installing this weekend and will take some pics. hey zimmi you have any instructions? or anyone have any advice,tips would be great

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Did you guys push any threads through the seat to get a tight fit, or are the covers just slipped over the seats? I know someone has used spray-on adhesive to install them before, what i'm trying to work out is if they are removable or not.

Did you guys push any threads through the seat to get a tight fit, or are the covers just slipped over the seats? I know someone has used spray-on adhesive to install them before, what i'm trying to work out is if they are removable or not.

I used most of the supplied strings through the seats and added some extra ones where it needed it. You can probably get away with just slipping them over because they are very tight fitting, but it wont look as good where the sunken contours are. At least if you use the strings you can always take the covers off later on and return to stock seats. I would not have bought these if they required adhesive.

I used most of the supplied strings through the seats and added some extra ones where it needed it. You can probably get away with just slipping them over because they are very tight fitting, but it wont look as good where the sunken contours are. At least if you use the strings you can always take the covers off later on and return to stock seats. I would not have bought these if they required adhesive.

So the strings go through the seats, or around them? Thanks

So the strings go through the seats, or around them? Thanks

poked through the foam and then tied to other strings poked through or to anything else that looks solid at the back of the seat structure.

post-9499-1209113057_thumb.jpg

Thanks for the pic Mark, do you think if you took the covers off, you'd see the holes?

What about on the front seats - i cant see how it'd be possible to thread a hole through the seat - how do they fit?

Thanks for the pic Mark, do you think if you took the covers off, you'd see the holes?

What about on the front seats - i cant see how it'd be possible to thread a hole through the seat - how do they fit?

Depends how and where you poke the string through. Most strings will go through at a seam in the seat so if the string comes out I dont think you will see the hole. I bought a big needle which was about 10cm long and used that to thread the string through. I tried poking the needle through the seat all the way through and out to check if a hole would be noticeable and it wasn't. At times I had to remove the string and the hole was not noticeable at all. The original material seems to be fairly elastic.

As for the front seats, I have a GTR so the original cover on the back of the seat can be unzipped to reveal the backing foam. The new seat covers are similar with zips at the back so you can put the cover over the old seat while still being able to thread the string through from the front. I then poked the string through the front of the seat through to the back and tied the strings together (since there is nothing else to tie them to). I then zipped up the original seat cover which hides the tied up strings then zip up the new cover to hide the old cover.

Damn it... i missed the GB. Whens the next one happening? i wanna get some for my car.

have money waiting so feel free to do one soon lol. cant wait.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...